Getting Your Low-Grade Renders Back On Track
I spent most of last month dealing with a client who kept sending me 8-bit renders that looked like they'd been dragged through a cheese grater. Banding in the sky gradients, crushed blacks, noise wherever there was shadow detail. We went through seven rounds before I finally put together a reusable workflow. That workflow became what people now call 15 Fixes For Broken Grades, and it's honestly the only reason my review turnaround times stayed sane. The core idea is straightforward. When an image comes in with broken color grades — banding, posterization, clipped channels, or just general low-bit-depth degradation — you run a series of targeted Photoshop actions that address each specific problem rather than throwing a blanket sharpen or noise reduction filter at everything. Each "fix" is a separate action or step: one for gradient smoothing, one for channel clipping recovery, one for lifting shadows without blowing out the midtones, that sort of thing. The full set typically covers banding removal, black point correction, white point setting, saturation normalization, localized contrast recovery, and a handful of other targeted adjustments. Fifteen steps total when you count them all out.
I learned the hard way that skipping even one step causes problems downstream. My first attempt at this left a hairline band running through a gradient sky that I only noticed after the client sent it back. The band was faint but it was there. That was because I had skipped the gradient refinement step and gone straight to saturation correction. The fix was to re-run the sequence from the beginning but with the dithering pass applied after the banding removal step. Takes about three minutes extra and saves a whole revision cycle.
How To Run The Workflow
Load your broken-grade image into Photoshop first. Make sure it's in 16-bit mode if you can convert it — most of these fixes operate cleaner with extra bit depth. If the file is already 8-bit, don't waste time trying to upgrade it. Just work with what you have and be aware that the results will be more limited in the shadow areas. Run the actions in order. The sequence matters more than people realize. Gradient banding fixes come before any saturation work because saturation adjustments can re-introduce banding if you do them too early. Black and white point adjustments come next, followed by midtone contrast fixes, then the noise and sharpening passes. The last step should always be a global quality check, not another adjustment. Each action typically takes two to eight seconds depending on your hardware and image resolution. A full pass through all fifteen on a standard 4K render runs about forty-five seconds to two minutes. Not nothing, but manageable if you're batching multiple images.
Get the Full Details

I run these through Actions panel in Photoshop CC. Open the Actions palette, drag the .atn file in, select your image, hit play on the group. That's basically it. Some people prefer scripting this through Automator for batch processing, but I've found that introduces more failure points than it solves. A single bad action in a batch script can corrupt the whole sequence and you won't know until you've processed thirty images.
Where 15 Fixes For Broken Grades Falls Apart
Here's the thing nobody mentions: this workflow cannot recover data that doesn't exist in the file. If your blacks are completely clipped to pure #000000 with zero channel variation, no amount of shadow lifting will bring detail back. You'll get noise and color artifacts instead of clean shadow recovery. Same goes for highlights that are fully blown out. The actions are aggressive but they're not magic. Another limitation that bites people is file format. These fixes assume you're working with PSD, TIFF, or PNG. Working directly from a JPEG at this stage is asking for trouble because JPEG compression artifacts interact badly with the gradient smoothing steps and can create visible halos around edges. Always convert or save to a lossless format first, even if it means extra disk space. I also ran into a specific issue with HDR renders that use exposure values outside standard range. The black and white point actions will clamp those values unexpectedly and produce a flat, lifeless image. The workaround is to normalize the exposure curve manually before running the action group, then let the fixes work from there. Takes maybe thirty seconds of manual adjustment and prevents a lot of headaches.
Common Mistakes People Make
The biggest one is running the full sequence on an image that only needs one or two of the fixes. You'll over-process it and end up with something that looks smoother but has lost its character. I used to do this constantly in the early days — run all fifteen on everything — until I started evaluating each image first and only applying the relevant steps. The second mistake is applying the actions at 100% opacity without checking the result after each step. Most of these actions have a built-in opacity fallback, but if you're using them raw through the Actions panel, they hit full strength. Running the banding removal at 70% opacity often gives better results than the default 100%, especially on subtle gradients. The third mistake is forgetting to non-destructive-edit your way through this. Convert your layer to a Smart Object before running the actions. That way if something looks wrong, you can go back and tweak individual steps instead of starting over. I've lost hours to this exact scenario when a client asked for a tweak five minutes after I'd already run the full sequence destructively.

When To Skip It Entirely
If the source image is severely damaged — heavy compression artifacts, multiple generations of re-save degradation, or content that's been stretched and compressed repeatedly — the 15 Fixes For Broken Grades approach will amplify the damage rather than fix it. In those cases, the best option is often to ask for a higher quality source file. No workflow in Photoshop can reconstruct data that was never there in the first place, and spending an hour trying will just waste everyone's time. I keep a folder of examples on my drive showing what these fixes can and can't do. Before committing to a full repair pass, I run a quick test on a cropped section of the image first. If the results look reasonable at 50% zoom, I proceed. If the test crop already shows artifacts or unnatural smoothing, I flag it with the client and move on to other options. The workflow itself is lightweight. No special plugins required, no expensive add-ons. Just standard Photoshop actions that any version from CC 2019 onward can handle. The value isn't in the tools — it's in knowing which steps to apply, in what order, and when to stop.