And Stratton 24 Hp Intek V Twin Carburetor Diagram

What You're Actually Looking For

The Briggs & Stratton Intek V-Twin 24 HP uses a dual-carburetor setup, meaning there isn't just one diagram you reference but two mirror-image diagrams plus the intake manifold assembly drawings that tie them together. Most people searching for the diagram need one of three things: a parts breakdown showing jet sizes and float heights, a carburetor schematic for troubleshooting idle and high-RPM issues, or an exploded view when rebuilding both carburetors from scratch. Finding the right one matters because the left and right carburetors have opposite-mounted linkages, and swapping the diagrams around will get you to the wrong side of the engine every time. The most reliable source is the official Briggs & Stratton parts lookup at briggsspartsparts.com or bristolproducts.com, where you enter the engine model number printed on the valve cover. That model number typically starts with something like 31R707, 395707, or a similar variant depending on your equipment year. Once you pull up the diagram, look for the carburetor section labeled typically carburetor assembly numbers in the 690000s or 790000s range. You'll also find aftermarket PDF reproductions on sites like partsfix.com and manualsraven.com, but those sometimes have mislabeled part numbers from copy-paste errors. The factory diagram is the only source I trust when ordering replacement parts. Free downloads of the full service manual are available through the Briggs & Stratton technical documents page, and the carburetor section runs about 8 to 12 pages within that manual. I pulled the diagram for a 2012 Troy-Bilt Pony with the 24 HP Intek last year after the engine started surging at idle. The diagram showed a 38 main jet and a 25 idle jet on each carburetor. What the diagram didn't show was that both jets were clogged with ethanol residue from gas that had been sitting in the tank for nine months. I cleaned both carburetors with carb cleaner and replaced the main jets even though they looked clean externally. The surging went away immediately after reassembly.

How the Dual Carburetor Setup Actually Works

Each carburetor on the Intek V-Twin feeds one bank of cylinders. The two carburetors are linked mechanically through a single throttle shaft that runs across both units, so when you push the throttle lever forward both butterfly valves open simultaneously. The choke linkage operates both barrels at once as well. Fuel flows from the tank through a filter and into the float bowls. Each carburetor has its own float, needle valve, and main jet. The key design point most people miss is that the two carburetors are not identical left-to-right. The mounting flange, linkage orientation, and sometimes the jet sizing differ between the left and right sides because the intake manifold runners are different lengths and shapes. If you order one carburetor kit assuming both sides use the same parts, you'll likely end up with the wrong throttle shaft or linkage bracket on one side. The float height specification for these carburetors is typically around 13 millimeters measured from the gasket surface to the top of the float when held horizontally. Some older diagrams list it as 11 to 13 millimeters depending on the exact carburetor series. Getting the float height wrong by just a couple millimeters changes the fuel level inside the bowl, which makes the engine run rich at idle and lean at full throttle. I've seen this happen repeatedly when someone rebuilds a carburetor without a float height gauge and just eyeballs it. It runs okay at first, then after a few sessions of use the engine starts to run rough because the floats settled slightly from vibration.

A Specific Problem I Ran Into

Last spring I was working on a Husqvarna YTA two-zero-four-eight with the 24 HP Intek. The engine would not stay running above 2500 RPM no matter how I adjusted the throttle stop screw. Both carburetors were synced, float heights checked out, and jets were clean. I pulled the intake manifold off to inspect the gasket and noticed that the runner on the right side was slightly corroded from moisture wicking through a cracked seal at the carburetor mounting flange. The left carb was feeding fine but the right side was starving. I replaced the intake manifold gasket set and the carburetor mounting gaskets, resurfaced the mating surface on the manifold with 400-grit sandpaper on a flat board, and reassembled everything. The engine ran smooth after that. The diagram showed the gasket part numbers but did not show that the manifold surface itself could warp or corrode, which is the root cause in my experience about half the time. Here are the things that actually come up in practice, not the textbook version. First, the choke plates on these carburetors wear at the pivot points over time. When they wear, the choke does not close fully and the engine floods on startup. You can check this by removing the carburetor top and manually moving the choke linkage. It should snap shut with some resistance. If it feels loose or wobbly, the bushings are worn and cleaning the carburetor will not fix the problem. Replace the carburetor or the choke plate assembly. Second, the throttle linkage on the Intek V-Twin uses a small C-clip on each carburetor's throttle shaft. These clips fall off during routine maintenance if you are not careful. I have lost three of them in grass over the years. When one falls off, the throttle shaft can slide out of position and the butterfly valve ends up partially closed at idle, causing the exact same surging problem I described earlier. Keep a small magnet or a dedicated clip container nearby when working on these.

Third, ethanol-blended fuel destroys the rubber needle valves and diaphragms in these carburetors faster than most people expect. The service manual states a fuel life of 30 days, but in practice I see failed needle valves in as few as four to six weeks with E-15 fuel. If you are in a warm climate and run the engine seasonally, adding a fuel stabilizer like ethaneclear or stabilizing with Sea Foam is necessary. Without it, you will be rebuilding carburetors every two seasons instead of every five or six.

Syncing the Two Carburetors

Syncing is the most important adjustment after any carburetor work. You need a manometer or a simple timing light with a tach adapter to measure intake pulse on each bank. The factory method uses a manometer connected to each intake port with the engine running at governed RPM. Both readings should be within two millimeters of water column of each other. If one side reads lower, the carburetor on that side is not opening as wide as the other. Adjust the linkage rod length between the two carburetors until the readings match. A timing light method works as a backup if you do not have a manometer. Place the timing light on each cylinder's spark plug wire and compare the spark pulse timing. The pulses should be evenly spaced. This method is less precise than the manometer but gets you in the right ballpark. Full synchronization usually takes about 20 minutes once you know what you are doing. The first time it took me about an hour because I kept forgetting which adjustment screw on which carburetor controlled what. The factory diagram is a parts identification tool, not a troubleshooting guide. It will tell you that part number 691234 is the main jet and part number 691567 is the float, but it will not tell you why the engine runs rich or how to adjust the mixture screw if your carburetor has one. Some Intek V-Twin carburetor variants have adjustable mixture screws. Others do not. The diagram alone will not clarify this. You need to cross-reference the carburetor assembly number with the carburetor application chart in the back of the service manual. Also, the diagram does not account for aftermarket modifications. If someone has already swapped the carburetors for a performance upgrade, the stock diagram is useless for diagnosing fuel delivery issues on that setup. One more thing the diagram leaves out is torque specification for the carburetor mounting nuts. Stripping the threads on the intake manifold is a real risk if you overtighten. The specification is approximately seven to nine foot-pounds. Use a small torque wrench if you have one. Fingertight plus a quarter turn is the workaround if you do not have a torque wrench, and it has worked for me on over a dozen rebuilds without a single stripped thread.