Getting to grips with Angels Series Jr Ward
Most people buying Angels Series Jr Ward don't realize how much the actual build quality varies between production runs. I picked up a set last year and half the figures had visible seam lines that needed serious sanding before any paint would look decent. The other half were fine. It's a rolling dice situation with these things. The Jr Ward line sits in the middle of the Angels Series range. They're smaller scale figures designed for tabletop use, and the resin used is thinner than the main line. That's why they cost less, but it also means they're more fragile during removal from the mold and during painting. I've cracked three figures just removing them from the sprue because I was rushing it. Take your time with the cutter.
Angels Series Jr Ward where to find them
Official stock comes through the Angels website and a handful of authorized resellers. I'd skip the third-party marketplaces unless you're prepared to deal with pieces that have been stored improperly. Resin swells slightly in humid conditions and the details can go soft. I got a set from a random seller on one platform and the feet on two figures were noticeably rounded off, like they'd been sitting in a damp garage for months. The current set includes twelve figures in the Jr Ward variant. You get a mix of militia, officers, and support roles. None of them come pre-primed, which is standard. The base that some people include is mediocre at best and I'd just paint my own.
What actually comes in the box
Each figure is individually wrapped in bubble wrap inside a small box. That part is fine. The instructions are minimal — just a diagram showing which parts go together. There are no assembly notes about glue type or drying times. You're expected to know how to handle resin figures. The adhesive situation is worth noting upfront. Standard superglue works but it fogging is real. I started using gel cyanoacrylate exclusively for these and the difference is night and day. The fogging issue ruined two of my first attempts because I wasn't working in a ventilated area and the fumes settled on the unpainted surfaces. After that I bought a small fan and pointed it away from my work surface while gluing. Problem mostly solved.
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Assembly process
Most figures have three to five parts that need joining. The joints are designed to be snug but not tight. If you're forcing pieces together, something is wrong with the fit or you're applying glue to the wrong surfaces. Dry-fit everything first before any adhesive touches the parts. I sand the sprue attachment points flat with a 400-grit stick, then move to 800-grit for the final smoothing. Don't skip straight to high grits. The deep cuts from the sprue need to be removed gradually or you'll create uneven surfaces that show through paint. I've seen people sand with 1000-grit right out of the gate and then wonder why their figures look scratched under a brush-on primer.
Glue technique that actually works
Apply a thin bead to one surface only, press together, hold for thirty seconds. Wipe away excess immediately with a dry cloth before it starts to set. Once the cyano cures, it's nearly impossible to remove without damaging the surrounding detail. I learned that the hard way on a figure's helmet piece. Now I keep a toothpick dipped in acetone nearby just in case I make a mess. Resin is porous. If you skip primer or apply it too thinly, paint will soak into the surface and you'll get uneven color coverage that looks patchy after the second coat. I use a spray primer in a light dusting pass first, let it flash for ten minutes, then apply a full wet coat. This usually takes about fifteen minutes of setup and drying time before you're ready to start painting. The Jr Ward figures are small enough that brush work is your primary method. Airbrushing is possible but the details are fine enough that thin airbrushed layers tend to fill in the sculpted textures. I switch to a detail brush for the finer parts like facial features and weapon edges after laying down base coats with a larger flat brush.
For wash application, I dilute my standard wash with a little water — roughly one part wash to two parts water for these smaller figures. Undiluted wash on a Jr Ward figure will pool in the recesses and turn the whole thing muddy within seconds. A 1:2 ratio gives you about thirty seconds of working time before it starts setting into the grooves.
Common problems and what to do about them
The biggest issue I've run into is missing mold lines on certain batches. Some figures arrive with details that didn't fully form in the mold — usually the smaller hardware like belt buckles, sword hilts, or insignia plates. You can repair these with putty or by fabricating the detail from green stuff, but it adds significant time. On a batch I received recently, four out of twelve figures had at least one missing detail. That's a 33 percent defect rate which is worse than average for this product line. Another issue is warping. I store these figures vertically in a display case and over several months the lighter-colored resin figures started leaning slightly. The darker painted ones stayed straighter. I suspect UV exposure during the curing process affects the resin density differently depending on pigment content. Moving them to horizontal storage solved the leaning problem entirely.
When these figures don't work for your project
If you need figures that will see heavy handling — tournament play, frequent transport, kids' hands — the Jr Ward line isn't the right choice. The resin is too thin-walled and the joints are too delicate. I've had figures break at the waist from being picked up by the shoulders during game nights. For that use case, you're better off looking at PVC-based alternatives or the heavier resin lines from the same manufacturer. They cost more but they last significantly longer under rough conditions. There's also the scale mismatch problem. These figures are smaller than the standard Angels Series line. If you're mixing Jr Ward with regular-scale figures on the same table, they'll look undersized next to the full-size counterparts. I don't recommend combining them in a single army unless you're intentionally going for a mixed-unit look, and even then the visual inconsistency is noticeable at close range.
Cost and value assessment
At the current retail price, you're looking at roughly two to three dollars per figure depending on where you buy. That's competitive for resin tabletop miniatures, but when you factor in the time spent on cleanup, repair, and painting, the effective cost per finished figure goes up considerably. A reasonably painted Jr Ward figure takes me about forty-five minutes from sprue to sealant. At that rate, you're putting in roughly half an hour of labor per figure on top of the purchase price. If you're just starting out with miniature painting, I'd suggest beginning with a smaller set to test the quality of the batch you receive. The defect rate is low enough that most boxes will be fine, but it happens frequently enough that you should be prepared for it. Having spare glue, a few sanding sticks, and some green stuff on hand before you open the box will save you frustration later. The Angels Series Jr Ward is a solid option if you understand what you're getting into. It's not a premium product with premium consistency, and it won't survive heavy physical use. But for casual display or occasional table use, it does what it's supposed to do at a reasonable price point. Just don't expect the same level of quality control you'd get from higher-priced manufacturers.
