Measuring Keycaps by Hand

The process is straightforward once you have the right tools, though most people buy fancy gauges online when a simple caliper does just as well. I've been swapping keycaps across keyboards for years now, and the first thing I check before ordering anything is the stem type and the overall profile height. A standard Cherry MX stem is roughly 7.4mm wide with a central square post, but not every keycap uses that. Some use wider stems, some use narrower ones, and a few use completely different mounting systems like Kailh's Choc low-profile. If you're buying custom keycaps without knowing your keyboard's stem type, you'll end up with pieces that don't fit, and that's a waste of money you can't easily recover.

Best Way To Manual For Custom Keycaps

Here is what I actually do when I need to figure out which keycaps will work on a board before spending any money. I start by measuring the stem opening on the keyboard itself using a digital caliper. Most standard keyboards accept Cherry-compatible stems, which is why they are everywhere, but there are enough exceptions that you should verify. Next, I measure the cap height from the top of the stem to the highest point on the keycap using a ruler or the caliper's depth gauge. This tells you the profile, which matters a lot for how the keyboard feels when you type. The profile is the part people get wrong most often. Profile refers to the overall shape and height of the keycap from front to back. Cherry profile is the standard low to medium dome shape found on most prebuilt keyboards. SA profile is tall and boxy with a distinct retro look, usually about 1.4 inches tall at its highest point. DSA is a flat, uniform-height profile where every keycap is the same height. XDA is similar to DSA but spans a wider area across adjacent rows. If you mix these profiles on one board, it looks strange and feels inconsistent. A Cherry row next to a tall SA row creates a jarring step that most people do not expect until they start typing. I ran into a real problem last year when I ordered a set of mixed-profile keycaps without double-checking the stem compatibility. The caps looked correct in photos, but when they arrived, half of them had a Kailh Choc stem instead of Cherry-compatible. My board used standard Cherry switches, so those keycaps were completely useless. I ended up selling them at a loss and going with a fully verified Cherry-compatible set instead. The lesson here is to always confirm the stem type before purchasing, even if the product page says it works with "most keyboards." That word "most" covers a surprising number of incompatibilities.

Key measurements you need before buying custom keycaps: Stem width: measure the opening where the keycap sits on your switch. Standard Cherry is approximately 7.4mm across the prongs. Some specialty switches use different spacing. Switch type: confirm whether your keyboard uses Cherry MX-compatible switches, Kailh Choc, or something else entirely. Platform size: measure your key sizes. A standard 1u key is about 17.45mm wide, while a spacebar might be 6.25u or even larger. Height profile: decide whether you want low-profile, standard, or tall keycaps based on your typing preference. There is a common misconception that all keycaps labeled "Cherry profile" are identical in height. They are not. Different manufacturers produce Cherry-compatible keycaps at varying heights and curvatures. Some brands make theirs slightly taller with a more pronounced dome, while others make a flatter version. If you care about feel, you need to look at actual user photos and reviews rather than relying on the profile name alone. A side-by-side photo comparison with your current keycaps is the fastest way to gauge the difference.

Another thing worth noting is the material difference between ABS and PBT plastic. ABS keycaps are smoother to the touch out of the box but tend to develop a shiny surface over time as the plastic wears down. PBT keycaps have a slightly more textured surface and resist shine much better. The tradeoff is that PBT is harder to manufacture with fine detail, so the legends and surface patterns on PBT keycaps are sometimes less sharp than on ABS. For a daily driver keyboard where you type heavily, PBT is generally the safer choice. ABS is fine if you prefer that smoother feel and do not mind the shine developing after a few months. Keycap pulling is the other side of this process, and it is where most people damage their equipment. A good keycap puller is an inexpensive tool, usually between five and fifteen dollars. Cheap plastic pullers work but can slip and scratch the keycap or the switch housing. A dual-wire puller with a coated or rubberized finish is better for protecting the keycaps. Pull straight up with even pressure. Do not wiggle side to side because that puts lateral stress on the switch stem and can loosen the switch inside your PCB over time. If a keycap is stuck, especially on a mechanical keyboard with tight-fitting stems, you can gently work it loose by pulling at a slight angle from the back rather than the front, since most stems taper slightly toward the top. I have found that the most useful thing you can do before installing new keycaps is to take a photo of your current layout. This serves as a reference when you are mapping the new set, and it also helps you remember which keycap goes where if you are mixing and matching profiles. A single photo of your keyboard from above, taken with good lighting, prevents a lot of mistakes during reassembly. You will thank yourself later when you are trying to figure out why the spacebar looks wrong on your desk.

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File:Best Buy Logo.svg - Wikimedia Commons

The biggest limitation of manual keycap measurement is that it only gets you so far. You can measure the physical dimensions accurately, but you cannot determine the exact texture, the thickness of the plastic, the quality of the legend printing, or how the caps will sound when typed. Those things come from reading detailed reviews and watching typing sound samples. If a manufacturer provides no user photos and no sound tests, proceed with caution. The visual appearance of a keycap online often differs from what arrives, particularly with color and finish. Lighting in product photos can make a matte PBT cap look glossy or shift the color entirely. For most people building a custom keyboard setup, the practical approach is to measure your stem type and key sizes, pick a profile that matches your typing style, and then research a few sets within that profile to find one with good community reviews. The manual measurement step takes about five to ten minutes and saves you from returning a set of incompatible keycaps, which typically costs more in time and shipping than the initial research effort.