Getting the Stick Out of an S10
The 5-speed removal from a Chevy S10 is not a day-and-a-half project if you know what you are doing, but it is easily a full afternoon with the right tools and a floor jack with a transmission support bar or a helper who does not mind hanging upside down. The S10 transmissions I am talking about are the T5 and occasionally the SM420 on earlier models, though the five-speed is the common swap target. Everything below assumes a body-on-frame setup with the standard clutch cable and shifter linkage. You do not need to drop the entire transfer case or disconnect driveshafts at the front if you are just pulling the transmission itself. The rear driveshaft unlatches first, followed by the shifter link, the clutch cable, and the electrical connectors on the back. Then comes the crossmember and the bellhousing bolts. I always mark where the crossmember sits relative to the frame before unboltting it so reinstallation is a matter of matching paint rather than hunting for center. The shifter linkage on the S10 is what trips most people up. GM used a rubber grommet bushing set on the side cover that tends to crack or separate. When you push the transmission rearward to drop it, the shifter lever can catch on the grommet and bend the linkage arm. I solved this once by removing the three selector fork retaining screws from the top of the case before even loosening the bellhousing bolts. It drops the shifter mechanism entirely clear and you stop fighting with a stubborn forward linkage while the transmission is halfway off the bellhousing. Takes about six minutes and saves a lot of frustration.
Tools and Preparation
You will need: A 3/8-inch drive ratchet set, a 1/2-inch drive for the crossmember and transmission mount bolts, a deep 15mm socket for most bellhousing fasteners, a 13mm for the shift linkage, and a 14mm for the clutch cable bracket. A torque wrench helps on reassembly but is not critical for removal. A transmission jack or an assistant with a sturdy piece of plywood for support is essential. The T5 is roughly 90 pounds; the SM420 is over 150 pounds and you do not want to test your back on that one. A brake cleaner spray and a wire brush are useful for cleaning the mating surfaces afterward. Common pitfall: The clutch release bearing slide tube on the S10 often seizes to the input shaft because moisture gets in through the bellhousing vent. When you pull the transmission away, the bearing can stick and drag the slave cylinder with it. If you hear a metallic scrape and the slave cylinder refuses to follow, do not force it. Back the transmission slightly, wiggle the release fork by hand, and you will usually free it. Forcing it bends the fork or cracks the slave cylinder housing. I learned that one the hard way on a 1995 S10 with 142,000 miles. The slave cylinder was ruined and the fork was bent enough to cause a shift binding later. Replacing the slave cylinder and fork before reassembly is better than finding out after everything is bolted back together.
Step-by-Step Removal
Step 1: Raise the truck and support it securely on jack stands. You do not need to remove the wheels for this job, but having the rear accessible helps with the driveshaft. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. This is standard practice and stops you from accidentally engaging the starter while the transmission is out. Step 2: Mark the rear driveshaft tunnel and yoke with a marker or paint pen so you know the orientation when you reinstall. Remove the two U-bolts or the flange bolts depending on your model year, then lower the driveshaft onto a block of wood. Do not let it hang by the CV joint or u-joint. Suspend it with a wire if you need to. Step 3: Move under the cab and locate the shifter linkage. There is a bracket that bolts to the side of the transmission with a linkage rod running from it to the floor shift lever. Remove the cotter pin or retaining bolt at the selector fork, then unbolt the bracket. The linkage should come free. If it resists, check for corrosion on the grommet bushings and apply penetrating oil. Let it sit for a few minutes.
Get the Full Details
Step 4: Disconnect the clutch cable. There is a release lever on the side of the transmission bellhousing. Unclip or unbolt the cable end. On some years there is also a retaining bracket bolted to the bellhousing that holds the cable in place. Remove that bolt as well. The cable should slide free once the bracket is out. Step 5: Unplug the reverse light switch and the speedometer sensor if your model uses an electronic VSS. These are usually on the driver side of the tail housing. A small flathead screwdriver or a trim tool works to release the clips without breaking them. Electrical connectors on these trucks are brittle after twenty years. Work slowly. Step 6: Support the transmission with a jack and a piece of plywood. Lower the jack until it takes the weight but do not lift yet. Remove the bellhousing bolts. There are typically ten to twelve depending on whether you have a T5 or an older unit. They are 15mm on most S10s. Some are corroded and will strip if you just torque them up. Apply penetrating oil and let it soak. Use a screwdriver to gently tap the bellhousing away from the engine block if it is stuck. The aluminum housing can bond to the cast iron due to rust and debris over time.
Step 7: Remove the crossmember bolts. These are usually 15mm or 17mm. The crossmember supports the rear of the transmission and is bolted to the frame. Once they are out, the transmission sits on the jack. Do not remove the transmission mount bolts at the engine block yet. Keep the assembly supported. Step 8: Pull the transmission straight back. The input shaft needs to clear the clutch disc and the release bearing needs to slide off the pilot bearing in the crankshaft. Rotate the engine by hand using a socket on the crank bolt while someone else pulls the transmission. This alignment trick prevents the input shaft from binding against the pilot bearing. I found this out after stripping a splines on my first attempt. The second time, I had a friend turn the crank and the transmission slid off in about thirty seconds. Step 9: Once the transmission is clear of the engine, unbolt the mount from the bellhousing and lower it completely. Set it on a clean surface. Cover the clutch fork and release bearing with a plastic bag to keep debris out.
Reinstallation Notes
Clean the bellhousing mating surface thoroughly. Use a plastic scraper, not a metal one, to avoid gouging the aluminum. Inspect the pilot bearing for play or roughness. If it feels gritty, replace it. The cost is minimal compared to taking everything apart again. Install a new clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing while you have access. Replace the rear main seal if there is any transmission fluid seepage around it. Use a dab of grease on the input shaft splines and the release bearing slide tube to prevent future seizure. Reassembly order is basically the reverse of removal: mount the transmission to the jack, align the input shaft with the clutch disc, rotate the crank to help it seat, bolt the bellhousing, reinstall the crossmember, reconnect the shifter linkage, clutch cable, driveshaft, and electrical connectors. Torque the bellhousing bolts to 18 to 22 foot-pounds. The crossmember bolts go to roughly 65 to 75 foot-pounds. Check the shifter linkage adjustment after everything is bolted up. The S10 shifter has a loose feel if the linkage is not set correctly, and you will blame the transmission when it is just a misadjusted rod.
What This Method Does Not Handle Well
If the transmission is fused to the engine due to severe corrosion or a warped bellhousing, this approach becomes much harder. You may need to carefully tap around the perimeter with a rubber mallet while someone slowly rocks the transmission back and forth. Do not use a hammer directly on the aluminum case. I once had a situation where the bellhousing had been overheated from a slipping clutch and the surfaces were bonded. I ended up using a thin putty knife wedged between the engine and bellhousing at multiple points to break the seal. Took about twenty minutes of patient work. Removing the starter beforehand gives you more room to work and is worth the extra time. The S10 floor shift linkage also has a tendency to develop play in the pivot points. If you are planning a full rebuild or clutch replacement, inspect the linkage bushings while the transmission is out. Replacing the grommets costs about fifteen dollars and eliminates a lot of vague shifting that gets misdiagnosed as internal transmission wear.
