Getting Your Ct Tek Wireless Charger Up and Running
I bought one of these off Amazon back when they were still in their early production run. The box has the charger, a USB-A to USB-C cable, and a wall adapter that looks like it came from a MacBook a few years ago. Instructions are minimal. I figured it out after two nights of frustration. The charger has a single LED indicator on the bottom edge. Green means charging is active and within spec. Amber means the phone is positioned but draw is exceeding the optimal range. Red means foreign object detection has triggered and charging has stopped. Here is the practical setup. Plug the USB-C end into the brick, the other end into the charger. Connect the brick to a wall outlet. Make sure the brick outputs at least 5 watts over USB. Anything below that will leave the unit blinking amber continuously and never reach full power output. The charger supports both Qi and Qi2, so newer iPhones and most Android phones from 2023 onward will work without issues.
Place your phone centered on the pad. You should feel a slight magnetic snap if you are using a Qi2 phone or have MagSafe-compatible case. Standard Qi phones just sit there and rely on your placement. If the LED flashes amber three times, remove the phone, wait five seconds, and replace it. That is the unit telling you it lost alignment during the handshake phase. There is a specific problem I ran into that I think others hit too. My phone case was a thin silicone one with a tiny built-in kickstand flap on the back. The flap sits exactly where the charging coil wants to align. The charger would pulse between green and amber every thirty seconds, never completing a charge cycle. I spent an hour troubleshooting before I realized the case was the issue. The workaround was simple: flip the phone so the kickstand face points away from the charger pad, or just remove the case entirely while charging. The coil alignment is tight enough that even a millimeter of offset throws it off. If you are using an older phone without MagSafe, expect to adjust the position slightly. The sweet spot is usually marked by a faint circle indentation on the surface, but it is not precise. Move the phone in half-inch increments until the LED stays solid green for more than ten seconds. That means the handshake completed and power transfer stabilized.
The charger does get warm. Not hot, but warm enough that you should not cover it with anything while it is running. I learned that the hard way. I left my notebook resting on top of it overnight, and the next morning the LED had gone red from thermal throttling. The unit recovers on its own once it drops below the threshold, usually after twenty to thirty minutes of cooling. A few things the manual does not mention. The charging speed maxes out at 15 watts for supported devices, but most phones cap at 7.5 to 10 watts regardless of what the box claims. If you want faster charging, you need a wired setup. This is meant for overnight or desk charging, not quick top-ups. Also, the ambient light sensor on the unit dims the LED after about ten seconds of inactivity. If you prefer it completely dark at night, just cover the sensor area with a small piece of electrical tape. Not recommended long-term since it could affect temperature readings, but for a guest room or spare bedroom it works fine.
Get the Full Details
If you experience persistent amber blinking after trying repositioning and case removal, the issue is likely the power brick. The included adapter is rated for 10 watts output, but some phones draw more during the initial handshake and trip the over-current protection. Swapping to a 20-watt USB-C PD brick usually resolves it without any compatibility problems. The charger manages the draw itself. That is how I got it working. The learning curve is about fifteen minutes if you read this far enough to understand where to place the phone and what the LEDs mean.
