What you're actually building
An infinity bong is just a water pipe designed so smoke travels through a continuous loop of chambers before exiting into your mouth. The idea is that more surface area and more water contact means cooler hits and better filtration. In practice it's mostly about surface area and airflow dynamics. The "infinity" name comes from the figure-eight or looping path the smoke takes through the percolators. You can build a functional one with two glass jars, silicone tubing, drill bits, and some basic tools. Here's how I actually went about it last year when I wanted something I could take apart and clean easily. Start with two identical mason jars, the wide-mouth kind. One becomes the downstem chamber, the other the upstem or recycler chamber. You drill a hole in each lid just slightly smaller than your silicone tube — I used a 5/8 inch spade bit for 1/2 inch ID tubing. The trick is sealing the lids properly. Regular hardware store silicone caulk works fine but you need to let it cure for 24 hours before testing. I learned that the hard way after my first one wept sealant into the water and ruined three batches.
Inside the downstem jar you need a percolator. A showerhead diffuser from the plumbing section works surprisingly well — it distributes airflow evenly and is cheap. Hot glue the diffuser to the inside of the lid facing downward. In the top jar, mount a simple downstem using a glass or metal tube that reaches about an inch below the water line. Again, silicone seal everything. Teflon tape on threaded connections if you have them helps prevent leaks over time. The tubing connecting the two jars runs from the top jar lid to the downstem jar lid. Smoke rises from the bowl area into the top jar, bubbles through the water, then travels via the tube into the second jar where it hits the showerhead percolator for additional diffusion before being inhaled through a mouthpiece or short piece of rigid tubing on the second lid. I ran into a specific problem with my second build — the airflow was so restricted by the dual-chamber design that I couldn't pull a proper hit without significant effort. The showerhead diffuser I chose had too many small holes. I swapped it for a simple acrylic Disc percolator with larger slots and the draw opened right up. Check your pull resistance before you seal everything permanently. Clamp the jars together with hose clamps and test pulls, then finalize the seal.
The water fill level matters more than most people expect. Too much water and you'll splash; too little and you get minimal filtration. Aim for the downstem to sit about a quarter inch below the surface when the jar is at three-quarters full. Mark the fill line with a permanent marker on the outside so you know exactly where to stop. One thing nobody mentions is thermal shock risk. If you're doing hot builds or running the piece without water in one chamber, the glass can crack. Keep both chambers filled and never introduce rapid temperature changes. I've cracked two jars doing this in the first month. Cleaning is where these things reveal their design flaws. The silicone tubing connects two pressurized chambers and resin builds up fast inside it. I solve this by using removable tubing sections rather than permanent connections. A simple ball-joint or removable bulkhead fitting on each lid lets me take the whole thing apart in under five minutes for a soak in isopropyl alcohol and coarse salt.
Get the Full Details
Don't expect perfection from this setup. The filtration advantage over a single-chamber bong is real but modest — maybe 10 to 20 percent cooler smoke if everything is sealed tight. The main benefit is the learning experience and the ability to tweak percolator types, chamber sizes, and tube routing without spending hundreds on a commercial piece. If you want something reliable and consistent, a good single-chamber with a tree perc will outperform a poorly built infinity setup every time. But if you want to tinker, this is a solid starting point.
