Setting Up the GE 33712 Universal Remote
The GE 33712 is a budget universal remote that covers most basic TV and audio equipment in a single package. It uses code lookup, auto-search, and direct code entry. I've used these in multiple homes over the years, and they work fine for straightforward setups. They get frustrating when you have a mix of older and newer devices, or when the brand-specific code lists don't include your exact model. Official documentation for this remote is hosted on GE's support site. You can find it at www.ge.com/support/universal-remotes and search for model 33712. The manual covers code entry procedures, device setup, and programming features like code search. If you lose the remote or need a clean reference, it's worth downloading because the quick-start card that comes in the box is incomplete at best. Here's the basic setup process for the primary device, usually the TV:
Turn on your TV manually. Hold the SETUP button until the LED stays lit. Enter the four-digit code for your TV brand from the code sheet. Press POWER. If the TV turns off, the code worked. Press SETUP again to lock it in. If it doesn't turn off, try the next code in the list. This is the standard procedure and it works for about 80% of TVs out there. For devices beyond the TV, like a cable box or soundbar, you repeat the same process but select the corresponding device key. The 33712 has separate keys for TV, DVD, CABLE, and AUDIO. Each one stores its own code set. One thing people miss is that the auto-code search feature is actually more reliable than the printed code list for certain brands. When the manual codes fail, switch to CODE SEARCH mode. Hold SETUP until the LED lights. Press and hold POWER. The remote cycles through codes automatically. Watch your device closely. The moment it powers off, press SETUP to lock the code. This method takes longer but it bypasses the limitation of incomplete brand code tables entirely.
I ran into a situation with a user who had a Samsung TV from around 2014 paired with a Sony soundbar. None of the listed Samsung codes worked. The CODE SEARCH feature found it after about four minutes of cycling. The soundbar was another story though. The listed Sony codes were incorrect for that particular model, and the search kept landing on codes that made the soundbar beep but not actually respond. What worked was entering the code manually using the direct code entry method with a code from a third-party database like universal-remotes.com. The official code list was missing that generation of Sony soundbars, but the community database had it. I still use that workaround when the built-in codes fail on non-mainstream devices. There are a few things about this remote that deserve attention before you commit to it. The range is mediocre. It uses IR, so you need line of sight and the remote needs to be within roughly 25 feet for reliable operation. Pointing it at a wall won't work. Another issue is that the button feel is plastic and mushy compared to name-brand remotes. That's expected at this price point but it matters if you program it for an elderly relative who presses hard. The biggest limitation is that this remote does not support learning functions. You cannot copy commands from your original remote. If your original remote has a dedicated button that the 33712 doesn't account for, you are out of luck. It also cannot handle HDMI-CEC control. If your setup relies on one-button power control across multiple HDMI devices, this remote will not do that. You would need a higher-end model or a smart hub for that.
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Another practical detail: the batteries are two AA cells. The battery compartment is on the back and the cover tends to pop off if you drop the remote. I keep a small piece of tape over it as a preventative measure. Not glamorous but it saves you from hunting for batteries in the middle of a setup. If you are setting up a single TV and maybe a DVD player, the 33712 is adequate. If you have a complex home theater with AV receiver, streaming devices, and ambient lighting control, you should look elsewhere. Models like the Logitech Harmony series or even a basic Apple TV remote paired with a smart hub will handle those scenarios without the frustration of code hunting. The manual is useful but the real value is in knowing when to stop using it and switch methods. The code list is a starting point, not the final answer. When it fails, CODE SEARCH is your next move. When that fails, external databases or a different remote altogether is the practical path forward.
