Working With a CJ-5 Steering Column
The steering column on a CJ-5 is straightforward if you know what you are looking at. It is not complex engineering, but it is easy to mess up if you pull parts off without a reference. Most people grab a diagram and start working blind. That is how stripped threads and bent ignition switches happen. I need you to have the right diagram in front of you before you touch anything. A proper Jeep Cj5 Steering Column Diagram will show you the relationship between the lower bearing, the intermediate shaft, the coupling, and the gear box input. Without it you are guessing at torque specs and bolt sizes. Here is what actually matters when you are looking at this setup.
Jeep Cj5 Steering Column Diagram Basics
The column assembly breaks down into a handful of key sections. At the top you have the steering wheel and the horn ring. Below that sits the turn signal switch, the ignition switch housing, and the multifunction switch block that varies by model year. The shaft drops through the body mount and connects to a U-joint coupler, which then mates to the steering gear input shaft on the frame rail. That is the mechanical path. The electrical path runs through the ignition switch and the neutral safety switch on manual transmissions. Year ranges matter more than most people realize. A 1962 column is different from a 1971 column in the bearing arrangement and the shaft splines. Early models use a single bearing upper mount. Later models added a second bearing for extra support because the longer columns and heavier steering wheels created more flex. If you pull a diagram for a 1965 CJ-5 and try to apply it to a 1970 restoration, things will not line up. Pay attention to the model year on whatever reference you are using. The ignition switch itself is a common failure point. It mounts directly to the column housing and the pushrod from the key cylinder connects to a wiper arm inside the switch. That wiper arm moves through Run, Start, and Accessory positions. When you replace the switch you need to match the number of terminals and the bracket style. There were at least three variations across the CJ-5 production run. I lost a Saturday afternoon to this once because I ordered a replacement switch that looked identical but had a different bracket spacing. The terminals were in the wrong places too.
Intermediate Shaft and U-Joint Coupler
This is the part that causes the most complaints about steering play. The intermediate shaft runs from the bottom of the column down to the steering gear. It uses two U-joints, one at each end, and a slip yoke in the middle that allows the shaft to compress slightly when the suspension moves. On a CJ-5 the front end articulates a lot, so that slip feature is necessary. If you remove the shaft and try to force it back in without aligning the yoke properly, you will strip the splines or bind the U-joints. The U-joints themselves are standard automotive size but the cross and roller assembly is easy to get wrong. I once replaced a worn U-joint with a cheap aftermarket version that had slightly different needle bearing dimensions. It installed fine, looked okay, and the next time I took the truck off road the joint seized at low speed. The steering locked up for a second. Replaced it with a Spicer-style joint and the problem went away. Spend the extra money on the joints. They are not expensive relative to the risk. Bolt torque on the coupler to gear connection is another area where people cut corners. The retaining bolts go into the steering gear input housing. Over-torque them and you crack the housing. Under-torque them and the shaft walks loose while driving. The factory specification for those bolts is around 25 to 30 foot-pounds, but that varies by year and gear type. Check your specific gear box manual if you have it. If you do not have one, go by feel and use a torque wrench. Guessing is how you end up with a loose shaft and a shaken apart steering box.
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Column Mount and Body Seal
The column mounts to the firewall with three bolts on most CJ-5s. The mount has a rubber grommet that seals the hole in the body. That grommet hardens over time and eventually leaks water into the cabin. I have seen a dozen CJ-5s where the firewall was rusted through because the column seal failed. The fix is simple but most people miss it. Replace the grommet whenever you pull the column out. They are cheap and easy to find. Also check the mount bracket for cracks. The vibration from the engine and the weight of the column combine to create stress fractures at the weld points on older examples. There is also the matter of the tilt versus non-tilt column. Some CJ-5s were equipped with tilt columns, usually from later model years or aftermarket installations. The tilt mechanism adds wear points. If you are rebuilding a column and it has a tilt feature, inspect the locking cam and the spring tension. A weak lock cam causes the column to shift while driving. That is not a comfortable feeling and it is dangerous. Non-tilt columns are simpler and generally more reliable. If you are doing a restoration and the original was non-tilt, stick with non-tilt. Tilt conversions look nice but they introduce a failure mode the original design did not have.
Ignition Switch Wiring and Security
Wiring behind the ignition switch is another thing that gets ignored until something stops working. The main power feed comes through a heavy gauge wire from the solenoid or starter relay. The accessory circuit runs smaller gauge wire to the fuse block. The lock position cuts power to everything except the key switch. If you are tracing an electrical issue, start at the ignition switch terminals. Number them with a marker before you disconnect anything. I cannot count the number of times I saw someone reconnect wires randomly and then wonder why the starter was engaging with the key in the Run position. Security is worth mentioning even though the CJ-5 was never designed with it in mind. The original ignition lock cylinder can be picked easily. Aftermarket locks with higher security ratings exist. They are not perfect but they make the truck slightly less attractive to thieves. If you leave valuables in the cab, it is better than nothing. Also, the original key blanks are still available from some suppliers. Do not lose your keys. Getting a new lock cylinder cut to match an existing one is harder than replacing the cylinder, especially on older models where the tumblers are worn.
Where to Find a Diagram
Official diagrams come from two sources. The first is the factory service manual for your specific model year. These are available as reproductions from several publishers and as original printed manuals on the used market. The second is the parts catalog. Every parts diagram shows the column assembly with part numbers and exploded views. These are more useful than the service manual if you need to order components because they give you exact part numbers. If you are working online, there are forums and restoration sites that host scanned diagrams. Jeepforum.com, CJ5.com, and the Yahoo Jeep Cj5 group all have files people have uploaded over the years. They are not always accurate for your specific year, so cross-reference the part numbers against a current parts catalog before you order anything based on an online image. I have found at least three cases where a commonly circulated diagram had the wrong spline count listed for the intermediate shaft. Ordering parts from that diagram would have resulted in a non-fitting component. The factory shop manual for 1963 to 1972 CJ-5 models covers the column removal and installation procedure in detail. It includes torque specs, adjustment sequences, and the breakdown of the steering gear adjustment that ties directly to the column output. If you can only get one reference, get that manual. It is the most complete single source available.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Do not remove the steering wheel without marking its position on the shaft. Even if you think you remember where it goes, it will not be in the same spot when you reinstall it. The spline engagement is precise and a misaligned wheel means you cannot center the steering before you bolt it down. Do not reuse the old column mounting bolts if they show any stretching or thread damage. These bolts are under vibration load and a failed bolt can let the column shift. They are inexpensive compared to the risk. Do not skip checking the steering gear input shaft condition when you pull the intermediate shaft. The splines on the gear input can wear, especially on high-mileage trucks. If the splines are rounded out, a new intermediate shaft will not solve the play you are experiencing. You would need to replace or rebuild the steering gear.
Finally, do not attempt to weld or fabricate repairs on a damaged column housing. The column is a safety-critical component. A cracked or bent housing compromises the entire steering system. Replace the damaged section or the entire column. There is no safe way to patch it and drive. Working with a Jeep Cj5 Steering Column Diagram is not difficult if you approach it methodically. Get the right reference for your year, label everything before you disconnect it, torque the fasteners to spec, and do not cut corners on worn components. The system is simple enough that most problems are preventable with basic care.
