Getting Your Kriss Kross Strop System Working Right

The Kriss Kross stropper is one of those tools that seems simple on paper but has enough fiddly bits that people either love it or give up on it after a week. I've seen a lot of people struggle with tension, angle, and compound wheel alignment. Here's how it actually works when you stop overthinking it. Before you do anything, make sure the base is sitting on a flat, stable surface. I once spent an afternoon wondering why my edge was inconsistent, only to realize the strop table was slightly rocking on an uneven workbench. One piece of cardboard under the leg fixed it. The system needs rigidity more than most people expect.

Kriss Kross Stropper Instructions

Start by loosening the main locking screw on the arm so you can swing the strop head into position. The strop wheel should sit flush against the blade at whatever angle you've dialed in. Most people default to 15-20 degrees for kitchen knives, which is reasonable. The guide post locks into place with a thumbscrew — don't overtighten it, the plastic threads will strip faster than you'd think. Apply a thin layer of sharpening compound to the strop wheel. I use a green Chromium Oxide paste, though some people prefer the blue tin oxide if they're doing fine polishing work. A little goes a long way — I'm talking about the amount you'd get if you dragged the compound stick across the wheel once. Building up a thick glob just creates slurry that pulls dirt into the wheel bearings over time. The actual stropping motion is straightforward: draw the blade through the strop with light, even pressure, keeping the spine slightly elevated so the edge meets the wheel at a consistent angle. Ten to fifteen passes per side on a dull knife will bring it from scraped and nicked to actually usable. If you're working on an already decent edge, two or three passes is plenty.

Here's something nobody mentions in the manual: the compound wheel tends to load up with metal debris if you're sharpening hardened steel repeatedly. I keep a separate strop disc dedicated to carbon steel blades because mixing the two causes the wheel to glaze over within minutes. The workaround is cheap — just buy a second wheel from the supplier and assign each one to a steel type. Takes thirty seconds and saves you from constantly cleaning the primary wheel. Another thing that trips people up is the tension spring on the arm. It should have firm but not rigid resistance when you push the blade into the strop. If the arm feels like it's fighting you, the spring is over-compressed and will cause the angle to shift mid-stroke. Loosen the rear adjustment screw a quarter turn and test again. You want smooth, consistent contact pressure, not a wrestling match. The system is not designed for ceramic or diamond stones. It's a stropping platform. Trying to use it with anything other than compound-loaded strop wheels will damage the bearing assembly and void whatever warranty you have left. I know someone who tried mounting a small diamond plate to the wheel hub and nearly stripped the entire mounting bracket. Stick to what it's built for.

Get the Full Details

Pat'd 1921 Working KRISS KROSS STROPPER/Box/Instructions/Etc. | #4654510260
Pat'd 1921 Working KRISS KROSS STROPPER/Box/Instructions/Etc. | #4654510260

If your edge isn't improving after several attempts, check the trueness of the strop wheel. Remove it and spin it by hand — it should rotate freely without any wobble or grinding. A warped wheel or debris caught in the bearing will create an inconsistent sharpening surface that makes the knife feel sharper in patches and dull in others. This is more common than you'd think on used or long-stored units. For storage, keep the tension relieved. Don't leave the spring compressed between sessions. It doesn't take much to forget this, but over months it weakens the spring permanently and the arm loses its return tension. I learned that the hard way after two years of daily use on my first unit. The whole setup is well-engineered but it rewards patience. Budget about twenty minutes for your first full session to get the angle and pressure right. After that, you should be able to freshen a standard kitchen knife in three to five minutes with consistent results.