Getting Your LG OLED G2 Cables Under Control
The LG OLED G2 doesn't ship with any kind of cable management system. There's no built-in raceway, no channel in the stand, nothing. The G-Slope stand has a vague groove on top that looks like it was designed for cables, but in practice it's too shallow and too narrow to do anything useful with more than a single thin HDMI cable. Everything else just sits there and drapes off the sides, which is exactly the opposite of clean. I spent probably three hours over a weekend figuring this out after mounting my 55-inch G2 on the wall. The problems get worse if you're using the wall mount rather than the stand, because now you're looking at every single cable from eye level with nowhere to hide them.
Lg Oled G2 Cable Management
The core approach most people settle on involves a combination of in-wall solutions and external raceways, with a few off-the-shelf products that actually work if you know what to look for. The single most important thing to understand is that the G2's back panel is completely flat with no recessed areas whatsoever. The power connector sticks out about half an inch on the bottom left corner when the TV is upright, which immediately complicates anything that requires a gap between the TV and the wall. If you're mounting the TV flush against the wall, that power connector becomes the primary bottleneck. I ran into this exact issue. My HDMI cables and power cable bunch up at the bottom left, and even with a low-profile wall mount there isn't enough clearance for all of them to curve naturally. The workaround I ended up using was an in-wall cable management kit like the One-Channel Low Profile In-Wall Power and Cable Kit by Sanus or the Peerless-made equivalent on Amazon for around $40. You cut a rectangular hole in the drywall about 10 inches wide by 4 inches tall, drop the kit in, and everything routes through. The G2's power brick goes in the lower channel and the HDMI cables go in the upper channel. It keeps the profile down to maybe half an inch from the wall. The catch is that not all low-profile mounts are created equal. I discovered this the hard way. My first mount, the ECHOGEAR EGWM7B1, had a profile of about 1.5 inches when fully extended, but when pushed flush against the wall it still left roughly 1.25 inches of gap at the bottom due to the pivoting mechanism. That's fine for a small TV but with the G2's power connector angle, two HDMI cables and a power cord simply wouldn't fit through that gap without being pinched. I switched to the ECHOGEAR Slim Space Saver mount, which is advertised at 0.85 inches when flat. The lower profile meant I could route everything through without any compression, and the cables sat naturally against the wall instead of being forced outward.
For people who can't or won't cut into their drywall, there are external raceway options. The NexTrix Cable Raceway System or similar aluminum channels mounted vertically behind the TV work okay but they add about an inch to the depth of the installation. On a 55-inch G2 sitting on a media console, this is usually fine. On a wall mount it makes the whole setup stick out noticeably more than it needs to. The raceways also look decent in photos but in person they're just extruded aluminum boxes with a snap-on cover. They do the job, but they're visually prominent and you'll want to paint them to match your wall color unless you're fine with a visible silver strip running down from the TV. Another detail that trips people up: the G2 uses an external power supply that plugs into the bottom left of the TV, not the back. The cable is about 18 inches long before it hits the actual power adapter box. That means even with the best raceway, you need at least six to eight inches of vertical space below the TV to route the power cord cleanly. If your TV is mounted high above a console with only two inches of clearance, the power cord will kink or pull against the connector, which over time can damage the port. I learned this from experience when my first installation had the TV too high and the power cable was under constant tension. Moving the TV down six inches on the mount solved the problem entirely. For the stand version of the G2, cable management is easier but still annoying. The stand base has a small channel molded into the top surface that runs front to back. It's maybe a quarter inch deep and two inches wide. A single slim HDMI cable fits in there without issue. Add a second HDMI cable plus the power cord and everything spills over the sides. The practical solution here is a small cable tray that clips onto the back of the stand leg or simply tucking everything behind the TV's built-in lip at the rear of the base. There are also adhesive silicone cord sleeves available for about $8 that wrap around multiple cables and give them a single neat profile. They don't hide the cables, but they make them look like one organized bundle instead of a tangled mess.
Get the Full Details
The in-wall route is the cleanest result by far. The visible profile drops to roughly the thickness of the TV plus the mount, which on a good low-profile mount is under an inch total. Everything else disappears behind the drywall. The downside is the installation itself. You need to run the in-wall kit through a stud bay, which means either finding an existing pathway or drilling through framing. If your TV is mounted on an exterior wall, you'll need to route the cables outside the house and then back in through a different hole, which adds complexity. Indoor mounts on interior walls are straightforward. There's also the question of signal degradation with in-wall HDMI runs. The G2 supports HDMI 2.1 at 4K 120Hz and 8K 60Hz, so you need certified Ultra High Speed HDMI cables for that to work properly. Running those cables through walls is fine for runs up to about 15 feet. Beyond that, you start losing signal integrity unless you use an actively boosted cable or a fiber optic HDMI cable. I ran a 20-foot Ultra High Speed cable in-wall to my PS5 and it worked without issues, but I've read enough reports of people getting handshake problems at 25 feet and beyond to recommend fiber optic HDMI for longer runs. The Monoprice Certified Fiber Optic HDMI cables run about $30 for a 15-footer and $60 for 30 feet, which is worth the peace of mind compared to troubleshooting EDID handshake failures at 2 AM. If you're dealing with the G2 on a stand and want something quick without buying a raceway, zip ties and a simple Velcro strap arrangement behind the TV's rear lip is the zero-cost option. It takes about ten minutes and looks mediocre but functional. The silicone sleeves mentioned earlier upgrade that to looking intentional rather than accidental. For the wall mount version, the in-wall kit plus a low-profile mount is genuinely the only path that produces a clean result without visible cables, and it takes about 45 minutes to an hour depending on your comfort level with drywall work.
