Understanding Your Palomino Pop-Up Camper Roof Lift

The roof lift system on a Palomino pop-up camper uses a pair of torsion springs mounted to hinge brackets on each side. When you pull the canvas and lift the roof, those springs absorb most of the weight. Lower the roof gently and the springs do the rest. The diagram you are looking for shows how these components connect from the spring hooks on the frame to the brackets on the roof hinges. Most people who buy a Palomino Pop Up Camper Lift System Diagram are trying to either rebuild a failed spring setup or figure out why their roof keeps sliding down on its own.

Where to Find the Palomino Pop Up Camper Lift System Diagram

Palomino did not publish an official schematic for the lift springs in their owner manuals. The diagrams you find online are usually recreated from photos taken during spring replacements. The most reliable ones come from forums like r/Camping and the Palomino owners group on Facebook. Look for posts that include close-ups of the spring mounting points and the part numbers stamped on the springs themselves. A good diagram will show the spring length, the hook style, and whether the brackets are bolted or welded to the frame rail. I spent an afternoon tracking down a correct diagram for my 2018 Palomino Feather Lite 215QSB. The spring brackets on that model use a 3/8 inch bolt through a tab on the frame, and the springs hook into a drilled hole in the hinge bracket. My original diagram from a parts seller had the wrong spring length by about two inches, which made the roof float up instead of staying down. I had to verify the part number against the old spring before ordering.

How the Lift Springs Actually Work

The torsion springs are rated in inch-pounds of torque. A typical Palomino pop-up uses springs in the 120 to 180 inch-pound range, depending on the model year and roof size. The springs are pre-loaded when installed, which means they are stretched or compressed beyond their natural length. This pre-load is what holds the roof down. Too little pre-load and the roof lifts on its own. Too much and you cannot lower the roof without using both hands and a bit of force. The spring hooks come in two common styles: J-hooks and S-hooks. J-hooks slide into a rectangular slot on the bracket, while S-hooks wrap around a pin. Most newer Palomino models use J-hooks because they are easier to install with one person. The older models from the mid-2000s often use S-hooks, which require you to stretch the spring while hooking it on. If you are replacing a failed setup, I would recommend getting J-hook springs unless your brackets are designed for S-hooks. Here is something most diagrams do not show clearly: the position of the spring on the bracket matters. Mounting the spring one hole higher or lower changes the leverage by a noticeable amount. I found this out the hard way when my replacement springs were mounted in the second hole instead of the third. The roof stayed up perfectly fine, but it also stayed up so firmly that I could not lower it without standing on the bumper and pulling with both hands. Moving the spring one hole down fixed it immediately.

Common Failure Points

The most common failure is the spring losing its tension over time. Springs will fatigue after several years of use, especially if the camper is stored in direct sunlight. The UV exposure weakens the metal and the coating cracks, which allows rust to start inside the coils. You can spot a failing spring by looking at the gap between coils. If the coils are spread apart evenly along the entire length, the spring has lost tension. A healthy spring will have the coils touching closely together at both ends. The second most common issue is the mounting bracket bending or cracking. The brackets are thin sheet metal, usually 14 to 16 gauge, and they take a lot of stress every time you open and close the roof. I have seen brackets crack right at the weld on a 2015 model after about five years of weekly use. The repair is to replace the bracket rather than try to weld it back. Some people use a bracket reinforcement kit, but those add bulk and can interfere with the spring hook installation. A third problem is the spring hooks popping off under load. This usually happens when the hook is bent open too wide during installation. The hook should only open enough to clear the bracket slot, not more. If you stretch the hook beyond its natural shape, it will eventually deform and pop off when the roof is fully raised. I learned this after my left spring came unhooked while driving down a highway. Fortunately the roof did not fly open because the canvas was still attached, but it was close. Now I mark the hook opening depth with a marker before installation so I know exactly how far to stretch it.

Spring Replacement Procedure

Start by lowering the roof completely and removing the canvas tension straps if your model has them. Loosen the spring hook from the bracket on the frame side first, then the roof hinge side. The springs are under tension, so you need to control them as you remove each end. I use a pair of locking pliers to hold the spring while I work the hook off the bracket. Never let the spring snap back freely, especially if the hook is worn or bent. Compare the old spring with the new one before fully removing the old spring from the bracket. Check the length, the hook style, and the part number stamped on the coil. If the new spring looks even slightly different, do not install it. I once tried to use a spring that was three inches longer because it was cheaper. The roof ended up sitting six inches above the frame when fully closed, which created a gap that let rain water straight through the seam. When installing the new spring, hook the frame side first while keeping tension on the spring. Then stretch the spring slightly to hook the roof hinge side. Use a spring loading tool if you have one, or a pair of locking pliers to hold the tension. Do not use screwdrivers or pry bars, which can bend the hook and weaken the spring at the bend point. Once both hooks are seated, check that the spring sits evenly in the bracket slot and does not twist.

Adjusting Spring Tension

If the roof floats up on its own, you need to increase the spring tension. Move the spring one hole lower on the bracket, or replace the spring with one that has a higher inch-pound rating. If the roof will not stay down, decrease the tension by moving the spring one hole higher or using a lower rated spring. I usually test the tension by opening the roof fully, then releasing it. If it stays open without support, the tension is correct. If it starts to close on its own, the tension is too high. Most diagrams do not address the fact that you may need different spring tension on each side. If one side of the roof sits higher than the other, adjust that side only. I had a case where the right side was floating up while the left side was fine. Moving the right spring one hole down solved it without touching the left side. Do not assume both sides need the same adjustment, even if the spring specifications are identical.

Part Numbers and Sourcing

Palomino does not use a single standard spring across all models. The part numbers vary by year and series. The Feather Lite models from 2016 to 2022 typically use springs with a part number starting with PAL-SPR- something. The Shamrock and Sierra lines may use different springs altogether. I always verify the spring by measuring the old one before ordering, even when I have a diagram with part numbers. The diagram from one seller had the correct dimensions but the wrong hook style for my 2019 model, which required me to drill new holes in the bracket. If you cannot find the exact spring, you can use a generic torsion spring supplier like Spring Company or McMaster-Carr. They will cut and form the spring to your specifications if you provide the wire diameter, outer diameter, free length, and required torque. This usually costs less than a branded replacement and gives you the option to specify a stainless steel spring if rust is a concern in your area. The trade-off is that you need to know the exact specifications, which means measuring your old spring carefully.

When to Call a Professional

If both springs have failed at the same time, or if the mounting brackets are cracked or bent, it may be worth having a RV technician inspect the setup. I attempted a bracket repair using a weld once, and the heat from the weld weakened the surrounding metal enough that the bracket cracked again within six months. The proper repair is to replace the bracket assembly, which is available from some Palomino parts dealers, though you may need to call around since they do not list all brackets online. If the roof mechanism feels rough or binding when you open and close it, the issue is likely not the springs but the hinge pivots or the canvas travel guides. Lubricate the hinge pins with white lithium grease and check that the canvas slides freely along the guide rails. Spring tension adjustments will not fix a binding roof, and over-tightening the springs to compensate will only make the problem worse while creating a new one where the roof refuses to stay down.