Things I Wish I Knew Before My First Trip to Iceland

I spent three weeks in Iceland last October, and honestly it wasn't nearly as bad as every guidebook makes it sound. The main problems people run into are predictable and mostly self-inflicted. I ran into several of them myself. What follows is a straightforward summary of where I went wrong and how I fixed things, with enough detail that you can probably skip the mistakes entirely. The biggest error I see people make is booking flights during the summer rush. Keflavik airport handles significantly more traffic between June and August than at any other time, and flight prices nearly double. I found a round-trip ticket from Boston in November for about $420. The same route in July was pushing $850. If you can swing shoulder season or winter travel, the savings are immediate and the crowds disappear. The Northern Lights become visible again after August, and the midnight sun crowd thins out completely by September. Another mistake that bites people harder than anything else is underestimating driving times. The Ring Road is roughly 1,332 kilometers, and while the distance sounds manageable, conditions change rapidly. I planned a day trip from Vik to Fjaerabugl and estimated it would take three hours. It took five. Half the route is single-lane mountain pass with sections of gravel, and there were two moments where I had to wait behind a slow tractor that was clearing a shallow flood crossing. You need to build in buffer time or you will be driving in darkness when you should have been parked.

Car rental is another area where people lose money. I rented a compact car because I thought Iceland roads were fine for anything. They are not. A lot of the interior routes require four-wheel drive, and rental companies will not let you take a two-wheel drive vehicle on F-roads without signing additional waivers that cost extra. I ended up switching to a Suzuki Jimny mid-trip, which set me back an extra $180 for four days and required picking it up in a different city. Book a proper 4x4 from the start. The insurance upgrade is worth it too because road debris from gravel sections is constant and a small windshield crack runs about $300 out of pocket. Food costs in Iceland are brutal if you don't plan ahead. A standard burger at a mid-range restaurant runs between $22 and $35. A pint of beer at a grocery store is around $4, and at a bar it is closer to $12. I calculated my daily food budget at $60 and still went over. The workaround I used was buying groceries at Bodega or Kronan and cooking most meals. Gas station hot dogs at 7-Eleven run about $3 and they are genuinely good. I ate them twice a day for a week and survived. It is not elegant, but it is honest pricing. Accommodation booking also has a trap. A lot of places require a deposit or full payment upfront, and cancellation policies are strict. I lost $240 on a guesthouse in Seydisfjordur because my car broke down on the way there and I could not make it. Make sure your bookings are refundable or have flexible rebooking options. Hostels and campgrounds are cheaper alternatives, and the campground season runs from May through September. A site like Landmannalaugar costs about $20 per person per night and includes basic kitchen access.

The weather is the one thing you cannot control and everyone underestimates it. I wore a cotton hoodie on day one and spent the afternoon shivering in a rainstorm near Skogar. Layers matter. Merino wool base layers, a waterproof shell, and moisture-wicking socks will save you from spending half your trip miserable. Rain gear costs around $80 at a place like 66 North, but you can buy decent gear at local sports shops for half that. Don't skimp here. Payment in Iceland is almost entirely card-based. Contactless works everywhere, including small buses and rural cafes. ATMs exist but charge around $4 per withdrawal, so withdraw a small amount upfront and use cards. Cash is accepted but unnecessary in 99 percent of situations. I carried about 10,000 ISK in cash as a backup and never needed it. The final mistake I want to flag is the assumption that everything is accessible year-round. Many attractions close or have reduced hours in winter. Gelir, for example, requires a guided tour in winter and you cannot just show up and walk in. Some geothermal pools require advance booking. Check opening times before you drive there or you will waste fuel and time pulling into a closed parking lot.

One specific edge case I ran into: the gas station at Hveravellir has no credit card machines that work reliably. I spent twenty minutes trying to get a pump to authorize my card before falling back on cash. Always carry a small amount of Icelandic krona, especially if you are traveling the interior routes. The workaround was simple, but I should have known better. Stock up at larger stations in town before heading into remote areas.