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| black fashion designers in history: Black Designers in American Fashion Elizabeth Way, 2021-07-01 From Elizabeth Keckly's designs as a freewoman for Abraham Lincoln's wife to flamboyant clothing showcased by Patrick Kelly in Paris, Black designers have made major contributions to American fashion. However, many of their achievements have gone unrecognized. This book, inspired by the award-winning exhibition at the Museum at FIT, uncovers hidden histories of Black designers at a time when conversations about representation and racialized experiences in the fashion industry have reached all-time highs. In chapters from leading and up-and-coming authors and curators, Black Designers in American Fashion uses previously unexplored sources to show how Black designers helped build America's global fashion reputation. From enslaved 18th-century dressmakers to 20th-century “star” designers, via independent modistes and Seventh Avenue workers, the book traces the changing experiences of Black designers under conditions such as slavery, segregation, and the Civil Rights Movement. Black Designers in American Fashion shows that within these contexts Black designers maintained multifaceted practices which continue to influence American and global style today. Interweaving fashion design and American cultural history, this book fills critical gaps in the history of fashion and offers insights and context to students of fashion, design, and American and African American history and culture. |
| black fashion designers in history: Black Doris De Pont, New Zealand Fashion Museum, 2012 Black is a gorgeously illustrated celebration and exploration of New Zealand's obsession with clothing ourselves in black - in society, power and politics, cultural icons, sport, fashion, film and music, from the Little Black Dress to the All Blacks jersey, Dunedin goths, the businesspeople of Lambton Quay and the patched jackets of gang members. New Zealanders choose to present ourselves to the world wearing black - and not just the All Blacks, Tall Blacks and Silver Ferns. Many of our fashion designers choose black as the cornerstone of their collections, and a great deal of our cultural icons (think Fred Dagg) are also characterised by wearing black. Doris de Pont, founder of the New Zealand Fashion Museum and curator of the pop-up exhibition Black in Fashion, has brought together 10 richly illustrated essays on the importance of black in the New Zealand psyche in a collection to wow and inspire. Join the discussion on www.facebook.com/WearingBlackClothes |
| black fashion designers in history: Paris Fashion Valerie Steele, 2017-09-21 Paris has been the international capital of fashion for more than 300 years. Even before the rise of the haute couture, Parisians were notorious for their obsession with fashion, and foreigners eagerly followed their lead. From Charles Frederick Worth to Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, fashion history is dominated by the names of Parisian couturiers. But Valerie Steele's Paris Fashion is much more than just a history of great designers. This fascinating book demonstrates that the success of Paris ultimately rests on the strength of its fashion culture – created by a host of fashion performers and spectators, including actresses, dandies, milliners, artists, and writers. First published in 1988 to great international acclaim, this pioneering book has now been completely revised and brought up to date, encompassing the rise of fashion's multiple world cities in the 21st century. Lavishly illustrated, deeply learned, and elegantly written, Valerie Steele's masterwork explores with brilliance and flair why Paris remains the capital of fashion. |
| black fashion designers in history: The Battle of Versailles Robin Givhan, 2015-03-17 On November 28, 1973, the world's social elite gathered at the Palace of Versailles for an international fashion show. By the time the curtain came down on the evening's spectacle, history had been made and the industry had been forever transformed. This is that story. Conceived as a fund-raiser for the restoration of King Louis XIV's palace, in the late fall of 1973, five top American designers faced off against five top French designers in an over-the-top runway extravaganza. An audience filled with celebrities and international jet-setters, including Princess Grace of Monaco, the Duchess of Windsor, Paloma Picasso, and Andy Warhol, were treated to an opulent performance featuring Liza Minnelli, Josephine Baker, and Rudolph Nureyev. What they saw would forever alter the history of fashion. The Americans at the Battle of Versailles– Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Halston, and Stephen Burrows – showed their work against the five French designers considered the best in the world – Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, and Marc Bohan of Christian Dior. Plagued by in-fighting, outsized egos, shoestring budgets, and innumerable technical difficulties, the American contingent had little chance of meeting the European's exquisite and refined standards. But against all odds, the American energy and the domination by the fearless models (ten of whom, in a groundbreaking move, were African American) sent the audience reeling. By the end of the evening, the Americans had officially taken their place on the world's stage, prompting a major shift in the way race, gender, sexuality, and economics would be treated in fashion for decades to come. As the curtain came down on The Battle of Versailles, American fashion was born; no longer would the world look to Europe to determine the stylistic trends of the day, from here forward, American sensibility and taste would command the world's attention. Pulitzer-Prize winning fashion journalist Robin Givhan offers a lively and meticulously well-researched account of this unique event. The Battle of Versailles is a sharp, engaging cultural history; this intimate examination of a single moment shows us how the world of fashion as we know it came to be. |
| black fashion designers in history: Yves Saint Laurent + Halston Patricia Mears, Emma McClendon, 2015 A dazzling examination of the two designers behind the most iconic and glamorous fashions of the 1970s This fascinating publication is the first to examine side by side the careers and work of two of the biggest names in 20th-century fashion, Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008) and Halston (1932-1990). Their designs--chic, sexy, and glamorous--came to exemplify the 1970s, a singular and dynamic era in fashion history. Inspired by menswear, foreign cultures, and wide-ranging historical periods, and employing new fabrics, YSL and Halston together crafted a new and distinctly modern way of dressing. Moreover, although their output differed and they were based on different continents, the two designers shared many career parallels. A visual timeline of the designers' lives illustrates how their rises and falls, from the 1950s to their respective struggles in the 1980s, were surprisingly in sync. Engaging passages by Patricia Mears and Emma McClendon discuss the social, cultural, and economic factors that influenced both designers, and their subsequent impact on fashion--including the rise of the star designer as personality, the cult of celebrity, and the creation of the fashion conglomerate. The authors also address the importance of color, cutting-edge materials, innovative construction techniques, accessories, and perfume to both designers' aesthetics. Remarkable photographs of the designers and their garments round out this essential volume on two figures who made an indelible mark on fashion history. Published in association with the Fashion Institute of Technology Exhibition Schedule: The Museum at The Fashion Institute of Technology, New York (02/05/15-04/18/15) |
| black fashion designers in history: Coco Chanel (Spanish Edition) Maria Isabel Sanchez Vegara, 2023-05-02 This beautiful Spanish-language book, translated from the hugely popular Little People, BIG DREAMS series, can be enjoyed by fluent Spanish speakers and those learning the language, whether at home or in the classroom. En este éxito de ventas internacional de la serie Little People, BIG DREAMS, aclamada por la crítica, descubra la historia inspiradora de este ícono de estilo internacional. Tras la muerte de su madre, Coco pasó sus primeros años en un orfanato, donde le enseñaron a usar aguja e hilo. A partir de ahí, se convirtió en cantante de cabaret, costurera, sombrerera y, finalmente, en la diseñadora de moda más famosa del mundo. Este libro conmovedor presenta ilustraciones elegantes y extravagantes y datos adicionales en la parte posterior, incluida una línea de tiempo biográfica con fotos históricas y un perfil detallado de la vida del diseñador. Little People, BIG DREAMS es una serie de libros y juegos educativos de gran éxito de ventas que explora la vida de personas destacadas, desde diseñadores y artistas hasta científicos y activistas. Todos lograron cosas increíbles, pero cada uno comenzó su vida como un niño con un sueño. Esta serie de empoderamiento ofrece mensajes inspiradores para niños de todas las edades, en una variedad de formatos. Los libros de cartón se cuentan en oraciones simples, perfectos para leer en voz alta a bebés y niños pequeños. Las versiones de tapa dura presentan historias ampliadas para lectores principiantes. Los juegos de regalo en caja le permiten recopilar una selección de libros por tema. Las muñecas de papel, las tarjetas de aprendizaje, los juegos de combinación y otras divertidas herramientas de aprendizaje brindan aún más formas de hacer que las vidas de estos modelos a seguir sean accesibles para los niños. ¡Inspira a la próxima generación de personas destacadas que cambiarán el mundo con Little People, BIG DREAMS! In this international bestseller from the critically acclaimed Little People, BIG DREAMS series, discover the inspiring story of this international style icon. Following the death of her mother, Coco spent her early life in an orphanage, where she was taught how to use a needle and thread. From there, she became a cabaret singer, seamstress, hat maker, and, eventually, the world's most famous fashion designer. This moving book features stylish and quirky illustrations and extra facts at the back, including a biographical timeline with historical photos and a detailed profile of the designer's life. Little People, BIG DREAMS is a best-selling series of books and educational games that explore the lives of outstanding people, from designers and artists to scientists and activists. All of them achieved incredible things, yet each began life as a child with a dream. This empowering series offers inspiring messages to children of all ages, in a range of formats. The board books are told in simple sentences, perfect for reading aloud to babies and toddlers. The hardcover versions present expanded stories for beginning readers. Boxed gift sets allow you to collect a selection of the books by theme. Paper dolls, learning cards, matching games, and other fun learning tools provide even more ways to make the lives of these role models accessible to children. Inspire the next generation of outstanding people who will change the world with Little People, BIG DREAMS! |
| black fashion designers in history: Dressed in Dreams Tanisha C. Ford, 2019-06-25 NOW OPTIONED BY Sony Pictures TV FOR A LIVE-ACTION SERIES ADAPTATION: produced by Freida Pinto and Gabrielle Union A perfect time to look at the ethos of black hair in America — and the perfect person to do it is Tanisha Ford —Changing America Everyone from the shopaholic to the clearance rack queen will see themselves in [Ford's] pages. —Essence Takes you not only into the closet, but the inner sanctum of an ordinary extraordinary Black girl who discovered herself through clothes. —Michaela Angela Davis, Image Activist and Writer [A] delightful style story. —The Philadelphia Inquirer From sneakers to leather jackets, a bold, witty, and deeply personal dive into Black America's closet In this highly engaging book, fashionista and pop culture expert Tanisha C. Ford investigates Afros and dashikis, go-go boots and hotpants of the sixties, hip hop's baggy jeans and bamboo earrings, and the #BlackLivesMatter-inspired hoodies of today. The history of these garments is deeply intertwined with Ford’s story as a black girl coming of age in a Midwestern rust belt city. She experimented with the Jheri curl; discovered how wearing the wrong color tennis shoes at the roller rink during the drug and gang wars of the 1980s could get you beaten; and rocked oversized, brightly colored jeans and Timberlands at an elite boarding school where the white upper crust wore conservative wool shift dresses. Dressed in Dreams is a story of desire, access, conformity, and black innovation that explains things like the importance of knockoff culture; the role of “ghetto fabulous” full-length furs and colorful leather in the 1990s; how black girls make magic out of a dollar store t-shirt, rhinestones, and airbrushed paint; and black parents' emphasis on dressing nice. Ford talks about the pain of seeing black style appropriated by the mainstream fashion industry and fashion’s power, especially in middle America. In this richly evocative narrative, she shares her lifelong fashion revolution—from figuring out her own personal style to discovering what makes Midwestern fashion a real thing too. |
| black fashion designers in history: Dapper Dan: Made in Harlem Daniel R. Day, 2019-07-09 NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER • “Dapper Dan is a legend, an icon, a beacon of inspiration to many in the Black community. His story isn’t just about fashion. It’s about tenacity, curiosity, artistry, hustle, love, and a singular determination to live our dreams out loud.”—Ava DuVernay, director of Selma, 13th, and A Wrinkle in Time NAMED ONE OF THE BEST BOOKS OF THE YEAR BY VANITY FAIR • DAPPER DAN NAMED ONE OF TIME’S 100 MOST INFLUENTIAL PEOPLE IN THE WORLD With his now-legendary store on 125th Street in Harlem, Dapper Dan pioneered high-end streetwear in the 1980s, remixing classic luxury-brand logos into his own innovative, glamorous designs. But before he reinvented haute couture, he was a hungry boy with holes in his shoes, a teen who daringly gambled drug dealers out of their money, and a young man in a prison cell who found nourishment in books. In this remarkable memoir, he tells his full story for the first time. Decade after decade, Dapper Dan discovered creative ways to flourish in a country designed to privilege certain Americans over others. He witnessed, profited from, and despised the rise of two drug epidemics. He invented stunningly bold credit card frauds that took him around the world. He paid neighborhood kids to jog with him in an effort to keep them out of the drug game. And when he turned his attention to fashion, he did so with the energy and curiosity with which he approaches all things: learning how to treat fur himself when no one would sell finished fur coats to a Black man; finding the best dressed hustler in the neighborhood and converting him into a customer; staying open twenty-four hours a day for nine years straight to meet demand; and, finally, emerging as a world-famous designer whose looks went on to define an era, dressing cultural icons including Eric B. and Rakim, Salt-N-Pepa, Big Daddy Kane, Mike Tyson, Alpo Martinez, LL Cool J, Jam Master Jay, Diddy, Naomi Campbell, and Jay-Z. By turns playful, poignant, thrilling, and inspiring, Dapper Dan: Made in Harlem is a high-stakes coming-of-age story spanning more than seventy years and set against the backdrop of an America where, as in the life of its narrator, the only constant is change. Praise for Dapper Dan: Made in Harlem “Dapper Dan is a true one of a kind, self-made, self-liberated, and the sharpest man you will ever see. He is couture himself.”—Marcus Samuelsson, New York Times bestselling author of Yes, Chef “What James Baldwin is to American literature, Dapper Dan is to American fashion. He is the ultimate success saga, an iconic fashion hero to multiple generations, fusing street with high sartorial elegance. He is pure American style.”—André Leon Talley, Vogue contributing editor and author |
| black fashion designers in history: Patrick Kelly Laura L. Camerlengo, Dilys E. Blum, 2021-11-09 I want my clothes to make you smile!--Patrick Kelly Patrick Kelly (1954-1990) was known for his bold, bright, and joyful fashion creations that resonated in the streets and nightclubs and on the runways of New York, Paris, and beyond. The first American and the first Black designer to be admitted to the governing body of the French fashion industry, Kelly boasted celebrity couture clients including Madonna, Cicely Tyson, and Gloria Steinem. His designs are distinguished by a combination of playful aesthetics and a willingness to brazenly foreground race and heritage and push cultural boundaries, including racial tropes like golliwogs, or Black baby dolls. Generously illustrated with hundreds of images of runway photography, garments on mannequins, and never-before-published archival materials, this book is an unprecedented exploration of Kelly's influential career, which was tragically cut short by complications from AIDS. More than 80 of Kelly's most beloved works are featured alongside thoughtful essays focusing on his work in relationship to French fashion, Queer identity, Black identity, and his exuberant runway shows. Also featured is a detailed timeline decorated with archival photographs and drawings, making this volume the definitive resource on Kelly's life and work. |
| black fashion designers in history: Mrs. Lincoln's Dressmaker Jennifer Chiaverini, 2013-09-24 New York Times bestselling author Jennifer Chiaverini's compelling historical novel unveils the private lives of Abraham and Mary Lincoln through the perspective of the First Lady's most trusted confidante and friend, her dressmaker, Elizabeth Keckley. In a life that spanned nearly a century and witnessed some of the most momentous events in American history, Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley was born a slave. A gifted seamstress, she earned her freedom by the skill of her needle, and won the friendship of First Lady Mary Todd Lincoln by her devotion. A sweeping historical novel, Mrs. Lincoln's Dressmaker illuminates the extraordinary relationship the two women shared, beginning in the hallowed halls of the White House during the trials of the Civil War and enduring almost, but not quite, to the end of Mrs. Lincoln's days. |
| black fashion designers in history: The New Black Vanguard: Photography Between Art and Fashion (Signed Edition) Antwaun Sargent, 2019-10-29 In a richly illustrated essay, curator and critic Antwaun Sargent addresses a radical transformation taking place in fashion, art, and the visual vocabulary around beauty and the body. In The New Black Vanguard, fifteen artist portfolios and a series of conversations feature the brightest contemporary fashion photographers. Their images and stories chart the history of inclusion (and exclusion) in the creation of the Black fashion image, while simultaneously proposing a brilliantly reenvisioned future. |
| black fashion designers in history: Black Ivy: a Revolt in Style , 2021-10-12 How Black culture reinvented and subverted the Ivy Look From the most avant-garde jazz musicians, visual artists and poets to architects, philosophers and writers, Black Ivy: The Birth of Coolcharts a period in American history when Black men across the country adopted the clothing of a privileged elite and made it their own. It shows how a generation of men took the classic Ivy Look and made it cool, edgy and unpredictable in ways that continue to influence today's modern menswear. Here you will see some famous, infamous and not so famous figures in Black culture such as Amiri Baraka, Charles White, Malcolm X, Martin Luther King Jr., James Baldwin, Miles Davis, John Coltrane and Sidney Poitier, and how they reinvented Ivy and Prep fashion--the dominant looks of the time. The real stars of the book--the Oxford cloth button-down shirt, the hand-stitched loafer, the soft shoulder three-button jacket and the perennial repp tie--are all here. What Black Ivyexplores is how these clothes are reframed and redefined by a stylish group of men from outside the mainstream, challenging the status quo, struggling for racial equality and civil rights. Boasting the work of some of America's finest photographers and image-makers, this must-have tome is a celebration of how, regardless of the odds, great style always wins. |
| black fashion designers in history: Paris Refashioned, 1957-1968 Colleen Hill, 2017 Paris Refashioned, 1957-1968 highlighted one of the most groundbreaking time periods in fashion history. While many books and exhibitions about this era position London as the center of innovative, youth-oriented design, this limited perspective overlooks the significant role that Paris continued to play in the fashion industry. Paris Refashioned, 1957-1968 examined the combined influence of French haute couture, ready-to-wear, and popular culture during this era, with particular emphasis on how fashion was perceived and promoted by the American fashion press. All objects on view were selected from The Museum at FIT's permanent collection of more than 50,000 objects--Museum at FIT web site |
| black fashion designers in history: Willi Smith Alexandra Cunningham Cameron, 2020-03-24 African-American fashion designer Willi Smith, pioneer of streetwear and visionary collaborator, finally gets his due in an exuberant celebration of his life and work. Before Off-White, before Hood By Air, before Supreme, there was WilliWear. Willi Smith created inclusive and liberating fashion: I don't design clothes for the queen, but the people who wave at her as she goes by, he said. A rising star from the time he left Parsons, Smith went on to found WilliWear with Laurie Mallet in 1976 and became one of the most successful designers of his era by his untimely death in 1987. Smith broke boundaries with his streetwear, or street couture, and trailblazed the collaborations between artists, performers, and designers commonplace today in projects with SITE Architects, Nam June Paik, Christo and Jeanne-Claude, Spike Lee, Dan Friedman, Bill T. Jones, and Arnie Zane. Essays by leading figures from the worlds of fashion, art, architecture, and cultural studies paired with never before-seen images and ephemera make Willi Smith essential reading for the history of streetwear culture and the evolution of fashion from the 1970s to today. |
| black fashion designers in history: How Not to Wear Black Anna Murphy, 2018-10-04 Shop better, buy less, and dress to tell the world this is me! Anna Murphy, Fashion Director of The Times, shares her tricks for dressing to feel confident and comfortable, look modern and fabulous, and define your personal style - without always resorting to black. Your clothes stake your place in the world to a voice, a path, a future. Choose who you want to be and how to dress well accordingly. As Mark Twain said, There is no power without clothes. Anna draws on her years of inside fashion knowledge and style experience to help you work out your clothing happy place. What best flatters your body? What expresses your sense of self? And how do you build a sustainable wardrobe that will serve you day in, day out, for years to come? Explore why less is more; how to layer, the tricks of mixing and non-matching, and how to dress up neutrals. Follow Anna's tips on the 9-5 work wardrobe, what to wear for that special event, and how to carry off athleisure in style. Also discover the best length of dress or trousers for you, your perfect jeans, and how to invest in a handbag that you will use and love for ever. Immerse yourself in this inspiring, realistic, and practical style book and you, too, will be able to throw chic outfits together effortlessly, have something you want to wear for every occasion, and create wardrobe that, with occasional shopping forays, can last forever. Make fashion your friend! |
| black fashion designers in history: The Great Fashion Designers Brenda Polan, Roger Tredre, 2009-11-15 From Charles Frederick Worth to Nicolas Ghesquière, designers have propelled fashion from an elite craft into a cornerstone of contemporary popular culture. This brilliantly written analysis of the achievements of the 50 greatest names in international fashion explores their lives, both personal and professional, drawing on the latest academic research and on the best of fashion journalism, including the authors' own interviews with designers spanning a 30-year period.The designers' working methods and career highlights are outlined in detailed and wittily written entries that capture the spirit of their times. From Poiret and Patou to Gernreich and Galliano, the sometimes provocative selection of 50 names poses stimulating questions about the definition of a fashion designer in the modern era. A ground-breaking book, this is a definitive introduction to fashion designers that is essential reading for both students and general readers alike. |
| black fashion designers in history: The World's Most Influential Fashion Designers Nöel Palomo-Lovinski, 2010-01-01 This is a comprehensive survey of 50 of the most influential designers, ranging from early celebrity designers such as Paul Poiret to current cutting edge designers such as Hussein Chalayan. The names chosen are there because they have had an extraordinarily powerful influence on fashion and collectively they are responsible for almost the whole fashion story of the last 100 years. Each designer's iconic creations are shown in detail, and graphic timelines and cross references show not only why these pieces were extraordinary in their own time, but why they are still influencing designers today. The timelines demonstrate design influence through the generations. The result is a fascinating look at the fashion world that will appeal to anyone interested in fashion as well as being a useful resource for all fashion students. |
| black fashion designers in history: Black Michel Pastoureau, 2009 About the history of the color black, its various meanings and representations. |
| black fashion designers in history: A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th and 21st Centuries Bonnie English, 2013-08-01 This new edition of a bestselling textbook is designed for students, scholars, and anyone interested in 20th century fashion history. Accessibly written and well illustrated, the book outlines the social and cultural history of fashion thematically, and contains a wide range of global case studies on key designers, styles, movements and events. The new edition has been revised and expanded: there are new sections on eco-fashion, fashion and the museum, major changes in the fashion market in the 21st century (including the impact of new media and retailing networks), new technologies, fashion weeks, the rise of asian fashion centers and more. There are twice as many illustrations. In its second edition, A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th and 21st Centuries is the ideal introductory text for all students of fashion. |
| black fashion designers in history: Slaves to Fashion Monica L. Miller, 2009-10-08 Slaves to Fashion is a pioneering cultural history of the black dandy, from his emergence in Enlightenment England to his contemporary incarnations in the cosmopolitan art worlds of London and New York. It is populated by sartorial impresarios such as Julius Soubise, a freed slave who sometimes wore diamond-buckled, red-heeled shoes as he circulated through the social scene of eighteenth-century London, and Yinka Shonibare, a prominent Afro-British artist who not only styles himself as a fop but also creates ironic commentaries on black dandyism in his work. Interpreting performances and representations of black dandyism in particular cultural settings and literary and visual texts, Monica L. Miller emphasizes the importance of sartorial style to black identity formation in the Atlantic diaspora. Dandyism was initially imposed on black men in eighteenth-century England, as the Atlantic slave trade and an emerging culture of conspicuous consumption generated a vogue in dandified black servants. “Luxury slaves” tweaked and reworked their uniforms, and were soon known for their sartorial novelty and sometimes flamboyant personalities. Tracing the history of the black dandy forward to contemporary celebrity incarnations such as Andre 3000 and Sean Combs, Miller explains how black people became arbiters of style and how they have historically used the dandy’s signature tools—clothing, gesture, and wit—to break down limiting identity markers and propose new ways of fashioning political and social possibility in the black Atlantic world. With an aplomb worthy of her iconographic subject, she considers the black dandy in relation to nineteenth-century American literature and drama, W. E. B. Du Bois’s reflections on black masculinity and cultural nationalism, the modernist aesthetics of the Harlem Renaissance, and representations of black cosmopolitanism in contemporary visual art. |
| black fashion designers in history: The Devil's Cloth Michel Pastoureau, 2003-06-04 To stripe a surface serves to distinguish it, to point it out, to oppose it or associate it with another surface, and thus to classify it, to keep an eye on it, to verify it, even to censor it. Throughout the ages, the stripe has made its mark in mysterious ways. From prisoners' uniforms to tailored suits, a street sign to a set of sheets, Pablo Picasso to Saint Joseph, stripes have always made a bold statement. But the boundary that separates the good stripe from the bad is often blurred. Why, for instance, were stripes associated with the devil during the Middle Ages? How did stripes come to symbolize freedom and unity after the American and French revolutions? When did the stripe become a standard in men's fashion? In the stripe, writes author Michel Pastoureau, there is something that resists enclosure within systems. So before putting on that necktie or waving your country's flag, look to The Devil's Cloth for a colorful history of the stripe in all its variety, controversy, and connotation. |
| black fashion designers in history: Inspiring Beauty Chicago History Museum, 2013 The Ebony Fashion Fair began in 1958, and over the next 50 years the traveling fashion show blossomed into an American institution that raised millions for charity and helped Johnson Publishing Company reach audiences. Show organizers overcame racial prejudice to bring the pinnacle of Europe's premier fashion to communities that were eager to see, in real time and space, a new vision of black America that was the hallmark of Ebony and Jet magazines. Eunice Johnson took over as producer and director in 1963, and under her direction, the traveling show took on new heights as she expanded her cachet and power within fashion circles. Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair recreates the experience of the Ebony Fashion Fair through the story of Mrs. Johnson and more than 60 garments from icons of the fashion industry such as Yves St. Laurent, Oscar de la Renta, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, Christian Lacroix, and Patrick Kelly among others. |
| black fashion designers in history: Black in Fashion Valerie D. Mendes, 1999 Black in Fashion by Valerie Mendes provides the answer and is the perfect reading companion for anyone who values their special party dress. It is a pure celebration of this ever-present fashion phenomenon, and the perfect gift that every woman would love to own. From the feather-light pleats of Fortuny early last century to the deconstructed creations of Comme des Gar ons - black has inspired designers all over the world. If you are a fashion connoisseur you will be seduced by the lure of couture names and fascinated by this evolutionary account. Valerie's lively commentary explodes a number of myths and puts key developments into context. It is complimented by absolutely stunning, specially commissioned, photographs and stylish page layouts. Dress it up, dress it down, the little black dress is one fashion essential that will never go away. |
| black fashion designers in history: The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present Veronique Pouillard, Vincent Dubé-Senécal, 2023-10-24 The time span covered by The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress starts in the nineteenth century, with the aftermath of the consumers’ revolution, and reaches all the way to the present. The fashion and garment industries have been international from the beginning and, as such, this volume looks at the history of fashion and dress through the lenses of both international and global history. Because fashion is also a multifaceted subject with humanagency at its core, at the confluence of thematerial (fabrics, clothing, dyes, tools, and machines) and the immaterial (savoir-faire, identities, images, and brands), this volume adopts a transdisciplinary perspective, opening its pages to researchers from a variety of complementary fields. The chapters in this volume are organized based on their relationship to five fields of study: economics and commerce, politics, business, identities, and historical sources. Paying particular attention to change, the book goes beyond the great fashion capitals and well-known fashion centers and points to the broader geographies of fashion. Particular geographical areas focus on the emergence of new fashion systems and business models, whether they be in Sweden, Bangladesh, or Spain, or on the African continent, considered to be the “new frontier” of the industry. Covering myriad aspects of the subject this is the perfect companion for all those interested in history of dress and fashion in the modern world. |
| black fashion designers in history: How to Slay Constance C.R. White, 2018-02-06 An inspirational journey through black fashion in America from the twentieth century to the present, featuring the most celebrated icons of Black style and taste. One of the few surveys of Black style and fashion ever published, How to Slay offers a lavishly illustrated overview of African American style through the twentieth century, focusing on the last thirty-five years. Through striking images of some of the most celebrated icons of Black style and taste, from Josephine Baker, Michelle Obama, Maya Angelou, and Miles Davis to Rihanna, Naomi Campbell, Kanye West, and Pharrell Williams, this book explores the cultural underpinnings of Black trends that have become so influential in mainstream popular culture and a bedrock of fashion vernacular today. A preponderance of Black musicians, who for decades have inspired trends and transformed global fashion, are featured and discussed, while a diverse array of topics are touched upon and examined—hats, hair, divas, the importance of attitude, the use of color, ’60s style, the influence of Africa and the Caribbean, and the beauty of black skin. |
| black fashion designers in history: Black Designers in American Fashion Elizabeth Way, 2021-07-01 From Elizabeth Keckly's designs as a freewoman for Abraham Lincoln's wife to flamboyant clothing showcased by Patrick Kelly in Paris, Black designers have made major contributions to American fashion. However, many of their achievements have gone unrecognized. This book, inspired by the award-winning exhibition at the Museum at FIT, uncovers hidden histories of Black designers at a time when conversations about representation and racialized experiences in the fashion industry have reached all-time highs. In chapters from leading and up-and-coming authors and curators, Black Designers in American Fashion uses previously unexplored sources to show how Black designers helped build America's global fashion reputation. From enslaved 18th-century dressmakers to 20th-century “star” designers, via independent modistes and Seventh Avenue workers, the book traces the changing experiences of Black designers under conditions such as slavery, segregation, and the Civil Rights Movement. Black Designers in American Fashion shows that within these contexts Black designers maintained multifaceted practices which continue to influence American and global style today. Interweaving fashion design and American cultural history, this book fills critical gaps in the history of fashion and offers insights and context to students of fashion, design, and American and African American history and culture. |
| black fashion designers in history: Fashion Is Spinach Elizabeth Hawes, 2015-05-26 After working as a stylist in Paris, Elizabeth Hawes (1903–71) launched one of the first American design houses in Depression-era New York. Hawes was an outspoken critic of the fashion industry and a champion of ready-to-wear styles. Fashion Is Spinach, her witty and astute memoir, offers an insider's critique of the fashion scene during the 1920s and '30s. I don't know when the word fashion came into being, but it was an evil day, Hawes declares. Style, she maintains, reflects an era's mood, altering only with changes in attitude and taste. Fashion, conversely, exists only to perpetuate sales. Hawes denounces the industry's predatory practices, advising readers to reject ever-changing fads in favor of comfortable, durable, flattering attire. Decades ahead of her time, she offers a fascinating and tartly observed behind-the-scenes look at the fashion industry's economics, culture, and ethics. |
| black fashion designers in history: Little Black Dress Shannon Meyer, 2016 What's the most important garment in a womans closet? More often than not, the answer is the little black dress. For decades, fashion magazines have touted the LBD as the perfect solution to almost every fashion crisis. Dressed up or down, with flats or heels, statement jewelry or a subdued jacket, the little black dress can be worn anywhere, for any occasion. Where did the little black dress come from? And how did black become the color of choice for every occasion? In Little Black Dress, Shannon Meyer answers these questions by offering a visual history of the black dress, illustrating its transformation from a traditional mourning garment to the fashion staple it is today. Richly illustrated with seventy full-color photos of dresses and accessories spanning 150 years, and including information about the designer, original owner, and historical context for each, readers will find Little Black Dress a stylish guide to this wardrobe essential. Designed to accompany an exhibit by the same name at the Missouri History Museum, the book will impress historians and fashionistas alike. |
| black fashion designers in history: A Queer History of Fashion Valerie Steele, 2013 From Christian Dior to Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen, many of the greatest fashion designers of the past century have been gay. This provocative book looks at the history of fashion through a queer lens, examining high fashion as a site of gay cultural production and exploring the aesthetic sensibilities and unconventional dress of LGBTQ people to demonstrate the centrality of gay culture to the creation of modern fashion. |
| black fashion designers in history: The Black Dress Valerie Steele, 2007-10-23 If you could have only one dress, wouldn't you make it a black one? Glamorous or modest, seductive or practical, chic and versatile, elegant, powerful, modern, and never out of style, the black dress has been the foundation of a woman's wardrobe for centuries. The allure of the black dress has captured the imagination of generations of couturiers and artists and served as the signature of society's most enviably dressed women. The Black Dress is a lush visual celebration of this fashion classic. With an essay and images selected by Dr. Valerie Steele, Director and Chief Curator of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, this volume features page after uniquely designed page of some of the most compelling dresses in the history of fashion. The diverse imagery includes fine art, runway shots and design sketches, stills from classic films and vintage fashion plates, and, above all, gorgeous evocations of the black dress from the world's greatest designers, illustrators, and photographers. These include paintings by Peter Paul Rubens, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Edouard Manet, and John Signer Sargent; illustrations by Georges Barbier and Ruben Toledo; and iconic images of movie goddesses such as Audrey Hepburn and Rita Hayworth. The world's foremost fashion designers, from Coco Chanel to Christian Dior, Yohji Yamamoto to Boudicca, are featured in full color throughout, their designs accompanied by quotes on black from writers, artists and fashion personalities. Extended captions at the back of the book provide details one ach dress and its place in fashion history. |
| black fashion designers in history: Kate Young, Dressing for the Dark Red Carpet Edition , 2017-02-15 In her first-ever book, celebrity stylist Kate Young draws inspiration from iconic fashion moments in film to choose the most influential eveningwear styles of all time, and offers her expert insight as to why these looks are so definitive and are worth revisiting today for that special night out. Spanning classic moments such as Audrey Hepburn in a timeless pink cocktail dress in Breakfast at Tiffany's and Julia Roberts in that iconic red gown in Pretty Woman, this book, complete with a directory of go-tos, is an accessory no woman will want to dress for the dark without. |
| black fashion designers in history: Adorned in Dreams Elizabeth Wilson, 2003 When Adorned in Dreams was first published in 1985, Angela Carter described the book as the best I have read on the subject, bar none. From haute couture to haberdashery, deviant dress to Dior, Elizabeth Wilson traces the social and cultural history of fashion and its complex relationship to modernity. She also discusses fashion's vociferous opponents, from the dress reform movement to certain strands of feminism. Wilson delights in the power of fashion to mark out identity or subvert it. This brand new edition of her book follows recent developments to bring the story of fashionable dress up to date, exploring the grunge look inspired by bands like Nirvana, the boho chic of the mid 90's, retro-dressing, and the meanings of dress from the veil to soccer player David Beckham's pink-varnished toenails. |
| black fashion designers in history: The First Book of Fashion Ulinka Rublack, Maria Hayward, Jenny Tiramani, 2021-02-11 This captivating book reproduces arguably the most extraordinary primary source documents in fashion history. Providing a revealing window onto the Renaissance, they chronicle how style-conscious accountant Matthäus Schwarz and his son Veit Konrad experienced life through clothes, and climbed the social ladder through fastidious management of self-image. These bourgeois dandies' agenda resonates as powerfully today as it did in the sixteenth century: one has to dress to impress, and dress to impress they did. The Schwarzes recorded their sartorial triumphs as well as failures in life in a series of portraits by illuminists over 60 years, which have been comprehensively reproduced in full color for the first time. These exquisite illustrations are accompanied by the Schwarzes' fashion-focussed yet at times deeply personal captions, which render the pair the world's first fashion bloggers and pioneers of everyday portraiture. The First Book of Fashion demonstrates how dress – seemingly both ephemeral and trivial – is a potent tool in the right hands. Beyond this, it colorfully recaptures the experience of Renaissance life and reveals the importance of clothing to the aesthetics and every day culture of the period. Historians Ulinka Rublack's and Maria Hayward's insightful commentaries create an unparalleled portrait of sixteenth-century dress that is both strikingly modern and thorough in its description of a true Renaissance fashionista's wardrobe. This first English translation also includes a bespoke pattern by TONY award-winning costume designer and dress historian Jenny Tiramani, from which readers can recreate one of Schwarz's most elaborate and politically significant outfits. |
| black fashion designers in history: The Hidden History of American Fashion Nancy Deihl, 2018-02-08 This book is the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet have been largely forgotten. Focusing on female designers, the authors reclaim a place in history for the women who created not only for celebrities and socialites, but for millions of fashion-conscious customers across the United States. From one of America's first couturiers, Jessie Franklin Turner, to Zelda Wynn Valdes, the book captures the lost histories of the luminaries who paved the way in the world of American fashion design. This fully illustrated collection takes us from Hollywood to Broadway, from sportswear to sustainable fashion, and explores important crossovers between film, theater, and fashion. Uncovering fascinating histories of the design pioneers we should know about, the book enlarges the prevailing narrative of fashion history and will be an important reference for fashion students, historians, costume curators, and fashion enthusiasts alike. |
| black fashion designers in history: The Fourth Industrial Revolution Klaus Schwab, 2017-01-03 The founder and executive chairman of the World Economic Forum on how the impending technological revolution will change our lives We are on the brink of the Fourth Industrial Revolution. And this one will be unlike any other in human history. Characterized by new technologies fusing the physical, digital and biological worlds, the Fourth Industrial Revolution will impact all disciplines, economies and industries - and it will do so at an unprecedented rate. World Economic Forum data predicts that by 2025 we will see: commercial use of nanomaterials 200 times stronger than steel and a million times thinner than human hair; the first transplant of a 3D-printed liver; 10% of all cars on US roads being driverless; and much more besides. In The Fourth Industrial Revolution, Schwab outlines the key technologies driving this revolution, discusses the major impacts on governments, businesses, civil society and individuals, and offers bold ideas for what can be done to shape a better future for all. |
| black fashion designers in history: Fashioning Lives Eric Darnell Pritchard, 2016-11 Fashioning Lives combines analysis of archival documents, literature, and film with the experiences of contemporary Black Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender, and Queer (LGBTQ) individuals to demonstrate the usefulness of literacy as a historical and sociological lens for examining black queer cultural production and consumption. In addition, Eric Darnell Pritchard provides a theoretical framework for future analysis of the intersections of race and queerness in literacy, composition, and rhetoric. |
| black fashion designers in history: Stylin' Shane White, Graham White, 2018-10-18 For over two centuries, in the North as well as the South, both within their own community and in the public arena, African Americans have presented their bodies in culturally distinctive ways. Shane White and Graham White consider the deeper significance of the ways in which African Americans have dressed, walked, danced, arranged their hair, and communicated in silent gestures. They ask what elaborate hair styles, bright colors, bandanas, long watch chains, and zoot suits, for example, have really meant, and discuss style itself as an expression of deep-seated cultural imperatives. Their wide-ranging exploration of black style from its African origins to the 1940s reveals a culture that differed from that of the dominant racial group in ways that were often subtle and elusive. A wealth of black-and-white illustrations show the range of African American experience in America, emanating from all parts of the country, from cities and farms, from slave plantations, and Chicago beauty contests. White and White argue that the politics of black style is, in fact, the politics of metaphor, always ambiguous because it is always indirect. To tease out these ambiguities, they examine extensive sources, including advertisements for runaway slaves, interviews recorded with surviving ex-slaves in the 1930s, autobiographies, travelers' accounts, photographs, paintings, prints, newspapers, and images drawn from popular culture, such as the stereotypes of Jim Crow and Zip Coon. |
| black fashion designers in history: New African Fashion Helen Jennings, 2011 Designers and brands featured include Duro Olowu, Black Coffee, Maki Oh, and Christie Brown. |
| black fashion designers in history: Perry Ellis Jeffrey Banks, Erica Lennard, Doria de La Chapelle, 2013-10-22 In the late ’70s, spirited young designer, Perry Ellis introduced a fresh, witty and relaxed new sensibility to American sportswear, initially for women and a few years later, for men. The clothes were easy, oversized, slouchy, but classic at heart and they caused a sensation. Ellis, who once told the New York Times that he always made a determined effort to do something different, did just that, creating a series of signature looks such as his “dimple” sleeves and single-cabled sweaters that set his clothes apart from everyone else’s. Nearly three decades after his untimely death, the legacy of the designer Ellis is still very much felt : PERRY ELLIS: An American Original is the first complete monograph to celebrate his exceptional career. The beautifully illustrated book showcases Ellis’s designs through a combination of photography and sketches, providing an insightful look at each season of his career, from 1976 to 1986, offering readers unique access to editorial and ad campaign photographs from the archives of brilliant photographer Erica Lennard, with whom Ellis worked almost exclusively. Included here are ephemera, a treasure trove of drawings, and never-before-published photos from the personal collections of the designer’s friends and family, adding insight to Ellis’s unique aesthetic while solidifying his place as one of the key contemporary designers of American fashion. |
| black fashion designers in history: All About Yves Catherine Ormen, 2017-11-07 Yves Saint Laurent is one of the world's most famous designers, who's haute couture collections have deeply marked society and revolutionized the image of women. All About Yves documents the life of this great designer, from his childhood, to the seminal moments of his career, up until his death in 2008. This one-of-a-kind book includes unseen sketches and photographs of Saint Laurent's key collections, as well as fascinating removable documents that include handwritten letters, paper dolls, contact sheets, magazines, and invitations. All About Yves was compiled in collaboration with the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent and is essential reading for those with a passion for YSL. |
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A community for all groups that are the rightful property of Black Kings. ♠️ Allows posting and reposting of a wide variety of content. The primary goal of the channel is to provide black men …
Black Women - Reddit
This subreddit revolves around black women. This isn't a "women of color" subreddit. Women with black/African DNA is what this subreddit is about, so mixed race women are allowed as …
Links to bs and bs2 : r/Blacksouls2 - Reddit
Jun 25, 2024 · Someone asked for link to the site where you can get bs/bs2 I accidentally ignored the message, …
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r/NothingUnder: Dresses and clothing with nothing underneath. Women in outfits perfect for flashing, easy …
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